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I just did a quick skim over f.h.c.'s post, but the short answer to your question is just about anything is possible to wire, you just need the know-how, or the guidance :) In a way you can think of a stock ignition lock cylinder. Turning it on is the ignition kill switch, and when you turn...

Who's 388bu? :lol: ;)

No problemo :D #-o #-o #-o

First thing to check would be the bulbs in the cluster. It's possible the bulbs could be bad, the traces on the plastic circuit board are bad or there's just some corrosion that isn't allowing good contact. They're either a 168 or 194 bulb. 168 is a slightly lower wattage and there's less...

I just put 2 & 2 together, seen you posting on GBF :D

You have solved my high performance rear arm bushing dilemma Tommy \:D/ Got a set of Moogs to use on the stamped arms for now, but I think I'll keep these in mind when I upgrade the suspension :D Thanks :awesome:

:shock: I didn't even realize it had them, mine has always had a tight fit & I never looked very close at it.

Are you talking about the rod bushings? I know it's pricey but you can get a kit with rod ends for about $65 from Speed Direct. http://cmc.speeddirect.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=7130-125&eq=&Tp=

Dang it, something else to add to my transmission wish list :roll: :lol:

I know Seville calipers can be used with the brackets from Speedway, I'm not sure if Deville calipers have any brackets to make them work though.

Believe it or not I did this (sealer) on the '81 this past summer :roflback: The floorboard isn't really bad, it's just fairly rusty with pinhole rust no bigger than ~.030" or so. It's also something I'm considering. I'll still be putting some converter & paint on both the inside/outside of...

I have a little pinhole rust on the front passenger floorboard, and I'm tring to find a good, fairly simple temporary solution for it. It'll be cut out and replaced eventually, but until then I'd thought of applying some Eastwood rust converter, then some body filler to either side to fill the...

Your best bet may be to go with something off of eBay, but make sure it has all the sensors, full harness, and the computer. There are some differences in the systems that make some more desirable, but I don't know for sure what they are. Most of the stuff will be contained on the intake, but...

I don't plan on any more than $1,000 personally, if that much.

I'm searching and still up in the air on whether or not to go with poly or rubber, but I'm just trying to make sure I have all the right sizes before I get everything, just so I don't have to reorder (nothing available locally).

I may make some progress on this '78 before heading back to AZ yet :) I'm thinking at the best we'll be using some Eastwoods prep & paint, but I don't even know where to start. The frame was media blasted a couple years ago, and it's now covered in surface rust. There are a couple body mount...

Needmoarpics of that orange 'Bu! I see it's your first post. welcome_sign.gif

However unlikely, there may be something partially blocking one side and not the other in the brake line. How hard is it pulling... just hard enough to notice it, or do you really have to fight the steering wheel?

I'm planning on keeping my 7.5. If I ever go over 500hp I'll probably upgrade to a better rear though. If it's hardly ever going to see the track then I say why not :)

I was using one on my early 305, but the 1-pc. 350 has a different sized radius to the lip on the pan. My concern was where the cover met the pan because it's close to the rear main seal & the crank flange, otherwise I would've used it again.