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Are both clusters the same layout? Or was one a wide speedo and the other a round gauge-type setup? The pinout is different between those two, but I also believe it would be the same if it was just idiot lights. If you have mechanical gauges I wouldn't be concerned about it, because there...

What kind of fuel injection? What ignition? It's hard to know just from knowing it's injected. Where is your initial timing? You can typically get away with making sure it's firing at TDC on the compression stroke, then go from there probably. What's your fuel pressure?

Hmmm... I'm starting to think it may have just been a fluke... I don't know. I've driven it while it was way off, but haven't heard of it acting up since then.

With the Saginaw there wasn't really a flat spot, so I had to hold on to both to make sure they moved. The hardest part was getting the tailshaft up past the OE driveshaft 'loop', then I had to get it lined up with the clutch plate/pilot bearing. After that it was cake.

Lookin' good :D This last time removing/installing the trans I was able to reinstall it in under an hour, and that's with the transmission sliding off once :lol:

Thanks for the heads up, if I wind up junking the '81 I'll make sure to snip the harness with lots of extra wire.

You'll likely have to come up with your own idea for a shifter boot. There was a sheetmetal baseplate for the original boot, I found a 1st gen. 2wd S10 shifter boot does a good job covering the area around the shifter, but you'll need to zip tie it to the stick from the inside to keep the air...

I would imagine it's the quarter panel, but don't know for sure because this is the first I've heard of it. There are two body mounts that are aft of the axle.

If you want to keep it fairly simple (i.e. don't want to deal with wiring/computer), you can go with a carbureted LT1 intake and non-computer-controlled HEI distributor, and get a controller for the trans. I don't believe the LT1s had a pad for a fuel pump rod (at the very least it wasn't...

I believe this is the one they said was a fairly easy fit, but I'm not positive. They drilled out the extra hole (an inch or 2 in front of the original hole on the axle-end of the uca) and it went in ok, you may need spherical bushings for it though. Also the backspacing, but you can have it...

Dear God... do mine next!!!!! :lol: I love before/after pictures.

The Radial T/A has been around a long time. When I had a set on my truck I was younger, so I wound up burning the back 2 off in a little bit of no time :roll: It may have been that they were on a pickup, but it seemed to me they didn't seem to hold the road as well, but that could've just been...

If they're actual G-Body parts (meaning the bellhousing and fork) they should get a decent amount. Have any pics?

My aunt picked up an '04 Rendezvous with about 50,000 miles from one of the semi-local dealers in MI (Labadie Buick GMC in Bay City). I guess the warranty she had has expired, but her speedometer is doing the same thing the recall was on the full size trucks (stepper motor malfunction that was...

I think it is a Nova, just grabbed it off Google. I know somebody in MI with a '78 shortbed Chevy with a 358, Muncie and said shifter. I could've sworn I had a picture of it, but I don't think I do :( BUT!!!! I found one or two on my buddy's Facebook/Myspace page... It has a set of wheels...

Also, if you're looking for something out of the norm far as a shifter goes, see if you can get a vertical gate shifter. They cost a bit more & only move forward & back like an automatic shifter.

The T5 in the S10 isn't probably much better for anything more than daily driving under v6 power. Most T5s - unless they've been modified/rebuilt - seem to be known to not handle a lot of power, but I haven't seen either way, a world-class unit would be better (there is wc and non-wc, neither...

Looks good :D What do you have far as tire size goes?

I won't use a remote solenoid again I don't think, just due to my own mistakes when I originally wired it #-o #-o #-o Instead of wrapping the starter though, try to put a heat blanket or heat shield around it. If you wrap it, any heat that gets inside will have a harder time getting out...

I don't know about the ductwork, but imo removing ALL the extra wiring, etc. under the dash isn't entirely necessary.