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I did a double take on this one since it's using the setup from a newer Vortec truck :shock: :lol:

Anything you need to keep it street legal will be on the left side, all the comfort stuff will be on the right.

My killer engine combo for the truck... 262ci. of pure GM power :P 4L60, 3.08s, and I averaged 24-24.5mpg on my drive from Michigan to Arizona with the bed loaded up :shock: Oh yeah, did I mention it turned over the 218,000 mile mark on the trip? :D Hasn't burned a drop of oil that I can tell.

I believe the LQ9 is the high performance version that was in Escalades/Denalis/Silverado SS. You may also be able to get a 6.0 from a GTO but I'm sure they'll want an arm & a leg since it's "from a GTO".

You can also get a GM Vortec intake for TBI :D It's kinda pricey though. http://www.sdparts.com/product/12496821/TBIVortecSBChevroletIntake.aspx

You'll be looking for something like a 2000+ fullsize GM truck or van.

All in how you drive it :D If you shock it a lot (i.e. power shifting, burnouts, etc.), it probably wouldn't live as long as if you drive it like a normal car. That being said, I haven't been easy on mine since I put the 3-speed in last year (and this year switched to a 4-speed). I have the...

t5 has a ton of info on his site, makes for excellent reading, especially if you can't find a bellhousing and fork :D The main things for a conversion are the pedals, and the bellhousing/clutch fork. The tunnel around the bellhousing is tight on the G-Bodies, so you can't just drop in a...

I don't know about the distributor, but I agree that $2500 is pricey. One of the shops that used to be around here (not sure if they're still around, Multistate Transmission) did mine as a carry-in unit for $450, 12mo./12,000mi. warranty.

Have you tried wiring up a relay with all-new wiring for the high-current side? That solved my heat-related issues. The starter/solenoid would draw more current when it was hard to start, and the original starter switch/wiring couldn't handle the current draw. I wired up a relay with a 30A...

I stuck it back in after taking the 2 or 3 small bits off the magnet. It may still make noise, and if that's the case I may just leave the car alone for a while... I'm not sure what's going to happen when I go to AZ the next week or two... may just start saving for a TKO or T56.

2 of the reverse teeth on the countergear are chipped. I'm not sure if that's what was making the noise, I believe the idler was just barely engaged, making the noise. Just gotta put it back in & see what happens I guess... If it still makes noise then I think I'm done for the year, and...

... I'm not sure what it is, and of course my mind is immediately going to the worst possible case... a rebuild (at least bearings). It drives fine, but there is a very light clattering sound (different from the first 4-speed I got that had bad gears). It doesn't make any noise in 1st, but 2-4...

Go pick on this guy, it used to be his car :roflback: dancin_banana.gif

Is there something wrong with your '80 lenses?

Did you do new bushings all through the front? If so try loosening the a-arm nuts (just enough where there will be a very slight bit of play) with the car at ride height, cycle the suspension some to try to help it settle a little, then torque them back down and see how it sits. You may need...

One last thing I checked (it's always the last place you've checked/looked right? :roll:). Wound up being the brake light switch. The $9 part cost me about $90 in parts/fluid (minus $25 or so from the fluid/filter change I was already planning on). Here's the filter... Truck has 216,000...

Got nitrous???? :shock:

If you only go to the track a few times a year, it would probably be fine with a good set of bearings/axles, and a support cover.

Re: '92 4L60... Crapcrapcrapcrapcrap... I hope I don't have to buy a torque converter because of a bad tcc :( So far I've replaced the socket on the trans itself (tabs on the old one broke while removing it to be cleaned), the solenoid (circuit is good inside the trans, verified @ the socket)...