Search results

Also, are you using spacers on the rear? I can't tell for sure but it doesn't look like you have any (if anything maybe 1/4" or 1/2"). What's your 8.5" out of? I've considered bolting in a wider 8.5" from a donor (B-Body, etc.) so I don't have to mess with spacers on the rear... not sure what...

Do you have a spare, or possibly know someone with one to try the wiring up to where the tach is? Then try wiring your tach to another engine & see if it does the same.

You need a different stick, or a different bracket/rod setup. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HUU-3730017/ http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Drivetrain/Section/Shifters/Part-Type/Shifter-Sticks-Manual-Transmission/?Ns=Rank|Asc&RC=100

Subscribed \:D/ I'm also planning on big C6 wheels eventually.

I know with the factory Malibu/Monte tachs if it pegs to maximum rpm, then it's an internal connection that can't be fixed externally, and you'd have to actually do soldering on the circuit board itself. Not saying this is the cause, but it's a possibility, something to consider.

It's not so much about losing the vent, that's not a big deal. The panel doesn't have the trim 'edges' that the factory cluster has. It just looks like a cheap molded piece of plastic to me with little definition compared to the stock piece.

They're alright... all the rounded edges make me think of the blank panels someone else used to sell... doesn't look anywhere close to factory styling.

$1,000 for a full setup? I'll pass. Heck, a blank panel alone is $300!

Did you look on craigslist yet? It takes a little more work (trying different spellings, munci, muncie, muncy, etc.) to find them, but you may find one semi-locally you could see in person.

Only if it had a radio with digital display/station memory. I think he figured this problem out already...

That was just from a quick look. You could probably find used cases online (craigslist, ebay, etc.) for cheaper, but at the same time if you buy it sight-unseen you're taking a chance at something being wrong with the case. Also see if any local transmission shops may be able to get one (or...

Here's one place that has them: http://www.5speeds.com/case.html Just make sure your countershaft is the right diameter (listed on the page).

If you get down to the internals, the port/valve configuration and cam specs come into play quite a bit, because the lower RPM the engine turns, the less fuel it will call for, but to get the torque you need at that lower RPM, you also need a high velocity going into the cylinders, otherwise the...

If you're running out of gear with that tall of a tire you need to go to a taller gear (3.90, 3.73, 3.55, etc.), a shorter tire will effectively make your 4.11 numerically higher (consider it going to something like a 4.56, etc.).

It's a simple math/physics equation (F=-kx for all that are interested). We'll say the weight distribution of the car is about 60/40, and it weighs 3200lbs, meaning about 1280lbs. will be on the rear springs. With the 171lb. spring rate (multplied by 2 gives 342, because of having 2 springs)...

Spotted this over on gbodyforum.com. May be of some use :) http://www.carpak.com/files2/7_MouldingClips2005.pdf

My guess is it's 462606 \:D/

I don't know about yours, take a closer look at them. Looks like you will need a different housing for the actual gauges though, unless you go aftermarket and wire everything separate.

My '92 Sierra has a driver's side manifold like what you're looking for I think :)

I didn't realize they had lights there, I thought they were all off to the side. The printed circuit I got for my cluster was off of a cluster with the round gauge-type setup, but it just had fillers/blanks where the oil/water/volt gauges would be :-k Now I see how those are though. The...