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You sir, are power hungry :twisted: I agree 500-550 is easy to hit with a cam & L92 heads (needs a new intake though I believe), but then again, there's that supercharger whine... :D

Re: Retrofitting aftermarket wiring harness... I'll give them a look, thanks :D

From the post I'd made in your clutch thread, I had another thought (it's crossed my mind before for my own car). If you ran a hydraulic throwout bearing (I believe they cost a little more, but I think that would be offset by running a factory LT-1 clutch setup), you don't even use a clutch...

Another option would be to run a hydraulic throwout bearing (no clutch fork needed), then you can run whichever trans/bellhousing/flywheel/clutch combo you want so long as the throw is correct.

Re: Retrofitting aftermarket wiring harness... Howdy :D I'm one of those types whose brain is always turning, getting new ideas to change/improve on something - "Hmmm, I wonder what it would be like if I did this...?" sort of deal. I had an idea to fabricate/fit a shifter similar to the new...

Are those shorty headers? That paint looks beautiful :D

That's one of the things I seem to remember they claimed, the internals aren't as complicated (i.e. why the Holley is more tunable). Same here, I put the carb on & the car sat for up to a year between starts (with the 305). If I'm driving it regularly, I can go out and - as long as it's warm...

That's one reason I thought it would be better off going with the adapter bellhousing, a regular 26-spline clutch isn't as expensive as the LT1-specific clutch.

Maybe I should've rephrased the backspacing question... does it provide any more (even if it's minute) clearance compared to the stock control arm? I'm just curious. I'll be ordering myself a set of aftermarket front arms, but it's an after-everything-else-is-done (body, drivetrain, etc.) sort...

If I had to go with an EGR setup on the 'Bu out here (only Vortec intake I know of is a GM one that has a spreadbore flange) I'd probably go with an aftermarket Q-Jet.

Yes, the fuel gauge will have a power and ground, and a third wire (pink, not pink and black, that is power to the cluster) will be the wire to the sending unit. Basically the fuel gauge is an ohmmeter, power (pink/black and black wires) is needed for the actual gauge, and the pink wire is the...

I'm just curious. My dad grew up on Holleys (built/tuned a few way back when), so that's his stance. The Edelbrock (1405) I have has worked well for me both on the 305 and 350 it's been on, no driveability/idle issues, etc., and it's gotten halfway decent mileage. If it's any help, it's a...

Sweet :D I'm assuming all the bushings would be OE-sized, and can they be ordered without bushings? Also, how would these do vs. backspacing? I know the stock lowers have issues and scrub the inner wheel lips with just a little more than stock backspacing.

Good info :D I have ~375hp on an OE unit in mine with a Saginaw trans, and so far I haven't really had any issues, but the tires don't hold up that well either :twisted: I'd rather the clutch slip than break the trans though, Saginaws aren't the easiest to find hard parts for.

Doesn't seem like it to me, I already have everything for mechanical linkage though. If you still have to buy all the parts, unless you find a really good (~$600-700) on a transmission I doubt you'll be under $1,500. -Master/slave cylinders (~$120+ for both new) -Pedal for master cylinder...

Do you already have a trans? If not it may be easier to find an LS1 T56 from a GTO or F-body. You should be able to get an adapter plate, run a flywheel/clutch from an F-Body with a T-5 & 1-piece rms block, and bolt everything up to stock G-Body bellhousing/linkage.

#-o Makes sense :D

Where parts are used from several different models, like this one (very good info btw! :)), I like to use a site like RockAuto.com or car-part.com. They usually have some way of showing the interchange between models, be it a direct one (RockAuto can list all models a specific part fits...

I know this isn't really a horsepower-related thread, but for anyone looking for a shorty-style header (as I may be), it may be viable to run a set of Camaro/Firebird headers that bolt up to the OE exhaust, since the collector should end up in the same spot...

Guess this is as good of place as any.... they also carry the door shells :D They are pricey though (~$490 each).