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You should be able to just pick up the correct units for your year/engine at the parts store.

The traces may go to different spots on the back of the cluster. That's why it has to be changed on the Malibu/Monte dash. You may have to do some tracing of your own with a multimeter, and following the traces on the back of the cluster.

You will need a sending unit for the temperature as well. You may need to do some re-pinning of your cluster to get everything to work though. Take a look at the dummy lights-to-gauges page on this site, may help a little bit, but having two separate connectors for the gauges may prove...

Putting this up to help anyone looking for 'em :) It's out of my '78 Chevrolet passenger car repair manual, but the specs probably apply for most G-Bodies. Disclaimer: If you break your bolts it's not my fault :P :lol: Front Suspension Ball joint stud nuts Upper stud - 60 lb. ft. Lower stud -...

No problem mang :D Working on listing all the suspension torques in this section right now :)

I got this from my GM shop manual for '78 passenger cars... probably the same for most all G-Bodies. Upper control arm Front bushing nut - 70 lb. ft. Rear bushing nut - 73 lb. ft. Front bushing bolt - 70 lb. ft. Rear bushing bolt - 80 lb. ft. Lower control arm Front bushing nut - 70 lb. ft...

I'm guessing it's not as easy as pusrods though... tighten it until all play is gone, then another ¼ turn?

The brushes in the motor are probably worn. I'm not sure there's a way to rebuild the motor, but Autozone sells new ones for $44+, Rock Auto also carries them starting at $24... I don't know how they are on shipping though.

Mine is lowered via Hotchkis 1902 springs (1½-2"?), I just used the cheapy $16 or so Gabriel Guardians.

Pretty sure the orange is constant 12v, brown is illumination, and I still don't know what the single wire is, may be a trigger for power antenna.

Does it have rally gauges now, or the long sweep speedo? If it has the long sweep, take a look here so your wiring is correct: http://www.maliburacing.com/gauge_conversion.html

What kind of car are you putting it in? I know there are digital sets out there for Monte/Malibu/El Camino dashes, and I think there's also a set for Cutlass too. They're supposed to just be a bolt-in deal for the most part I believe.

Sounds like the deal I got. Neither of mine have the key-lock thing (keeps the cylinder from turning all the way back & locking the column when you turn the ignition off), but I have a tilt, and a non-tilt column (non-tilt was after my original column was broken :x), but I scored the tilt...

I'm hoping to be capable of 12s (even if it's 12.99) with a good carburetor tune and my current setup (9:1 350, Comp XE268H, stock Vortecs, GMPP intake, Edelbrock 1405, 2.29s with a 3.50:1 1st gear Saginaw).

Easy stuff... Get a GM TKO, furthest shifter back. Make a hole in the floor. Get a G-Body bellhousing/pedals/mech. linkage/etc. Make the crossmember fit. Make the driveshaft fit. Done :lol: I'm sure it's not as difficult as it seems, at least in my mind. Having the bellhousing indexed of...

That's an oooooooooold article. I have the hardcopy of it here somewhere.

They're aftermarket fiberglass, Honest Charley has 'em for sale, and nowunko here on the board has also started making (or made, it may be a per-order basis) rear bumpers for the Malibus, they already made rear ones for wagons.

I know. I got rid of the S10 T5 I had, I was just curious what bolt pattern the S10 T5 used.

Thanks for the correction :oops: What about the later S10 T5s with the Ford bellhousing bolt pattern?

That would probably be a fuel issue, or a carb issue. The oil could also be coming from an oil galley plug, though coming loose while driving down the road is highly unlikely. How fast is it "pouring" out? If it's a slow, steady run take a flashlight and see if you can track it down. The oil...