Search results

That's true. Converting a roller-capable block isn't too pricey though, just in case you don't find a newer one. Plus it's possible to get new rollers semi-cheap too. New sig pic looks good :)

:oops: I should've said my '88 motor :lol: Just for a point of reference. You could pick one up at the junkyard for fairly cheap probably, and get a set of Vortecs while you're there.

If you go with an actual Vortec motor, it's unlikely it'll be drilled for a fuel pump pushrod. I have an '88 350 that's drilled, and has all the provisions for a roller already machined.

Very nice :D You're gonna catch some people off guard with that one :lol:

I believe you just bolt it on. I don't think there are really any differences where the shifter's concerned, just where it locates the shifter ball.

I would look for anything pre-'88 I believe it is (switched to 28-spline axles). I don't know if they had both types or just one.

Re: '92 4L60... :lol: I have a Haynes manual and have already been into the wiring of an '88 pickup. I was just wondering if there were any TSBs or the like on the lockup converter. I think this one's been rebuilt, it sure seems to shift nice & firm for a 214k-mile truck.

Really my issue isn't so much tire height/travel, they're only about 25½" tall. It becomes an issue when the wheels turn, because the stock wheel wells are more of an odd semi-spherical shape as opposed to being semi-cylindrical, which would take care of all my tire clearance issues where the...

alowerlevel, nice pics :) That's something like what I was thinking. I knew they used wheel tubs on bagged trucks, I was curious if anyone here did it on a G-Body.

I've read the same, and believe it. If the fenders are gone all the air can collect and form a sort of air foil in the engine compartment, and it doesn't have anywhere to go. If you were racing with no hood it would be a different story.

... has anyone done this? I don't really want to run without them, because I drive the car almost daily during the spring/summer, and it does rain here :lol: I'm just thinking I may wind up with some clearance issues with the wheels I have. I want to get all this figured out before I do the...

If you're going with an auto, put in a 2004R with some 3.42s, it'll really wake up the car ;)

That's a good starting point up here imo. I'm not sure if I showed you pics of the green 'Bu (they're on my MySpace) where it's rotted through at the front bottom corner of the right door jamb. Is it the link I sent you earlier today?

I haven't done it yet, but there are a few things you can try... A)put the new bushing in the freezer B)clean up the housing area around the bushing C)lube the housing where the bushing will go

Is your vacuum advance canister disconnected? It needs to be disconnected to get an accurate reading. If the car is running fine it may be electricity flowing through you to the timing light, making it act erratic. I always try to make sure I'm touching as little as possible when I set the...

GOOD GOD man :shock: I like my man pedal ;)

#1 is still the same as an SBC. Think of it as a 350 with 2 cylinders gone. I always put the pickup for the timing light close to the plug as possible, but I'm not sure it entirely matters. Also, you do need to unplug the vacuum advance & plug the hose, with it plugged in it advances the...

Also make sure you're not getting a gov-loc posi, they're not quite so tough. gov-loc cone type

That's an awesome site indeed. I found it when I was looking up the paint code on my '78.

Not too big for me \:D/