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I might try some heavier springs, I'm not sure the vacuum advance is adjustable on a stock distributor, though there are adjustable replacements available. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MOR%2D72315&autoview=sku

Your timing may be a tad too advanced. If you turn it back a hair (did you use a timing light?) it should solve the problem. Usually it's a trial/error thing.

Well, the 5.3s up here I'm seeing for $750 and up, and the 6.0s are about $1,000 and up. I did my search using car-part.com, 2002 gmc/chevy 1500 (1999 up).

:roflback: I guess I should start with the obvious stuff eh? :lol:

Lots of wiggling & twisting :) \:D/ You could possibly spray some Liquid Wrench or something on it and let it sit for a bit, then try it, that might help a bit.

The lurker comes out to say hi :lol: How ya be? You hit the bricks in Flint? That's a purty motor btw :thumbsup: Mine still sweats oil...

If you pick up the recent month's issue of Hot Rod where they start a 6.0 buildup they go over some of the oil pans if anyone's wondering (figured I'd mention it here as well). They said the truck pan would probably fit older muscle cars, along with the later (I believe '05? Maybe it's the...

It won't run, or it will run poorly (little power, may not rev). Also if it's too far advanced (i.e. a tooth off) it'll probably want to backfire through the carburetor when you rev it. Also, if you can't get it to point the exact same spot as the original distributor, use a long handled flat...

Ya, disconnect it and see if it still blows fuses, that should tell you pretty quick whether it's the wiring or motor.

I seem to remember seeing the one in the first 2 pics recently, but I can't remember what it's for. What kinda car is it from? Rear defrost maybe?

They're fun to wire up, I can tell you that much from when I added factory power windows to my '88 1/2 ton Chebby. There's most likely a power & ground going to each switch, and the lock switches are some sort of 3- or 4-way switch I think, so if one person hits lock and the other hits unlock...

In this month's Hot Rod they started a 6.0 buildup series (heads/cam next month). With 1.8 rockers, a FAST intake (90mm tb), full length GTO headers (with cats), and a fuel/spark retune it made 448lb.ft. @4700rpm, and 428hp @5500rpm. That's a bone stock 6.0 crate motor outside the...

Did you go with a set of prebent lines? When the time comes to redo my car that's the route I have planned, a set of stainless lines, don't want even a chance at them rusting away like the OEM lines.

Below is the original post, but I'm hoping this will be a thread to help correct an erratic/inaccurate/unresponsive tach. From everything I've read it's a resistance value on a resistor 'pack' on the board for the tach that goes out of spec (small, white ceramic piece that looks like an IC...

I concur!!!

I've done some looking in the past, and found a few vendors that sell pre-bent brake lines for (at least) the Malibus, though I'm guessing they fit all G-Bodies. Does anyone have experience with one or the other? The vendors I've found are: PST (Performance Suspension Technology)<i></i>...

A few months back I replaced the hard line that runs from the distribution block on the frame under the brake booster back to the frame mount for the rear brake hose (which was replaced a few years ago, it might as well be new). I've driven it since I put that hard line in without issues...

I'd start with the grounds for the brake lights.

But where would the fun be in not blowing money??? I know I don't have hardly any fun without any new parts... Maybe I can scrape up some money to build a mild 383 over the winter...

Since this topic is here... I'm using the newer style alternator ('88ish +). Is this constant 12v moved to the inside of the alternator?