Search results

http://www.ssautochrome.com/ I almost fell outta the chair when I read what they had on the front page: Maybe it's a spinoff of this site? Take a wild guess :lol: ====================================================== Why are you still arguing Supras and these cheapy turbo kits? They...

Totally. And STOP YELLING! YOU'RE HURTING MY INTERNET EARS!!!!! Do I detect a little mod sarcasm? :lol: Supras don't impress me. Sure, they're nice cars, and you can make 'em go fast, but only after 100mph :roll: How does that power curve look? Does it look like a plateau, high from the...

You might just need an o-ring for it. O-RING If the cable housing itself is covered in fluid you could probably just clean it off. Since you have the speedo out, I'd say go for a drive around the block to make sure it's not the cable. If it's the cable, you might be able to spray a bit...

Reason I say turbo (imo) is you don't have to pay to refill the turbo :lol: Plus I think it adds to the cool factor ;)

I picked up a serpentine setup from a '94 CPI Blazer today, and it has a newer style alternator on it: The connector has a brown & pink/black wire. With the alternator I currently have: There's only 1 brown wire that's running to the alternator for the regulator. Is it going to be the same...

Total lamesauce. Guess I'll keep an eye out then :?

You can disconnect it and take out the clutser without pulling the cable off the back of the speedometer, but I wouldn't recommend it, because if you were to reinstall it you'd have to snake the cable back through the firewall, and that area behind the dash is really tight. Here's a pictorial...

Check out THIS LINK and the pics below (same site): Apparently the '84-'88 Vette bellhousing lines up just peachy with the G-Body linkage. I don't know how rare these bellhousings are though, so it may be a ghost hunt, I can't be any help there. But, since I'm here and I know you're...

Not without a lot of work, I know it's not easy taking it out. Do you have cruise? If so, you can disconnect the cable from the cruise box, and that makes it a lot easier to get to the clip on the back of the speedometer. See if you can tell if it's the cable or the speedo makin' the noise...

TPIs had a regular distributor like the rest of the Gen Is... Maybe I just read it wrong? But yes, the 4.3 "Baby" LT1 came in the later B-Bodies, and I believe those had a single coil as well. Also, the LT1 intake doesn't have the large curved runners like the TPIs do. Does it look like this?

Yes, excellent :D

Yes, I've saved 'em all to the computer because I know I'll need 'em one day or another :D

Don't be stingy! ;) Email 'em to a mod, they could put it with the wiring diagram pics in the tech area.

My statement still stands. Voltage drop would be negligible in this case I'm sure, unless someone can give me proof that the ohm-per-foot rating would be that much higher than a 0 or 00 AWG wire...

If you're referencing a ground that runs all the way back up to the engine, it probably wouldn't be as good as grounding to the frame or cage. There is more metal to carry current (I'm sure ohms per foot probably wouldn't come into play here ;)) than a wire that's run 15'-17'. Not that there...

You're || this close to breakin' that mark! :D Engine sounds purty ;)

You're welcome :) I really need to do this over the winter. Had a no-start for a bit again today 'cause of the stupid solenoid. Saw the voltmeter drop about 3-4 volts every time I tried to start it, but it just sat there and wouldn't do anything besides put a strain on my battery ](*,) ](*,)...

Any specific reason why?

What exactly is grounded to the cage? If you run the ground of both the motor and the battery to the cage you might be ok.

If you have any more info, feel free to post it :) Or let me know if there's something inaccurate.