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Diesel?

And the dual piston Blazer calipers for the front, and S-series rear disc setup as well :D

The battery terminal on the starter needs to be jumpered to the 's' terminal on the starter. I've read some people have taken a shot piece of small diameter copper pipe, flattened it with a hammer, and drilled holes through it to make the jumper. I don't know if that would be possible in your...

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That's what we're here for, to help the fellow rothodders ;)

Curses... of course my Haynes manual I have from when I had my '88 pickup is out in the barn :P Thanks Dad. Did you check the pickup coil? That's what went wrong on mine. You have to pull the shaft out of the distributor to get to it. Here are a couple pics showing its location and how to...

This is excellent info. Not positive I'm grasping it all as I'm very tired, but excellent nonetheless! :D Basically this is a "yes" to my question? :lol: It's up in the air on what 6-speed I would go with, but this helps greatly as it opens up the door of being able to use either transmission.

I know they have flexplates that can work with older (pre-Gen III) automatic transmissions, but what about manuals? I may forego the T-5 mindset and just go to a T-56, but if I can't find an LS-series trans I may wind up just going with a Gen I/II version. I've found a couple vendors on e-bay...

Those aren't the specific wheels, but it's that model. Boyd Shyster, 17x9.5 (don't know if it's with/without tires). http://www.fbody.com/partsfs/50060 I know they're F-Body wheels, but the guy's asking $400+shipping... granted it may be upwards of $600 after shipping, I'd say that's a small...

ClassicTube also sells them. There's about $20 difference one way or the other between the two.

Take a look at this pic from the wiring diagrams on the front page: Look specifically at the 'wiper/washer control'. I'll be hooking up a toggle + momentary switch for the wipers as well until it comes time to put a delay motor in (have a column for delay wipers but the switch inside is...

Spacers! :P

That's what I've always done :) Some people like to stick to the 'recommendation', but since every motor's unique, one might be happier a hair one way or the other.

That's a nice lookin' 'Bu :D Directly in front of the blower motor... is that a temperature probe? And what are the hoses on the driver's side going to?

Thanks to all who have inadvertently contributed to this thread through replies to other posts on this forum :D :nana_wrench: \:D/ bouncing.gif tongue_nah_nah.gif

I'm not sure if this is good practice, but what I've done (& felt results) is I make sure the fluid is almost topped off, then remove the reservoir lid and SLOWLY press the brake pedal to the floor a few times. Since the holes in the cylinder are always under the fluid, it can't pull any air...

I don't have an answer to why the pedal is sticking, but have you tried running a hose from the bleeder to a bowl or (clean) pop bottle with fluid in it? This is how I've bled my brakes for years, without any problems, you still need to keep an eye on your fluid level like you typically would...

I would jump on it, they're about $1,500+ in my area. You'll be hard pressed to find a core of such a 'young' engine compared to a Gen 1 350 or even a Vortec 350. Keep in mind the 6.0 has only been around since like '99 I believe, maybe '00 or '01

:roflback: I'm not sure what to say to that... I was gonna reply but it looks like I was beaten to the punch :P