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And it's fwd, which makes it even more fun!

Kill power to the coil and/or the module. If it's an older HEI, there are 3 wires from the coil to the module, and if any of them are cut, the engine likely won't run (I'm not sure if the module grounds through the distributor body as well).

You can still get a lot of HP from EFI... it just takes $$$ as it always does with making power :? :roll:

Re: Manual & Automatic gear ratios Updated... fixed ratios, added PG ratios and consolodated.

Yes. I would run 8 or 4ga. from the alternator to the trunk for the battery.

The post on the back goes to the battery, and so does the 10ga. wire that plugs into the top with the smaller brown wire (if you're redoing all the wiring you can just tie that one with the plug into the post on the back to save on some wiring). The brown one goes to the 'charge/alt' light in...

Yeah. I would have more than one kill switch, maybe a dummy switch as well. This would also be in conjunction with an alarm and a secondary (maybe even tertiary) siren (already have an alarm/2nd siren).

You shouldn't have to. My Sonoma sat from May 'til September or so and cranked over just fine last year, has a Die Hard.

I would imagine they don't clear since the intake sits so high.

They'll work :) I've seen the aluminum 15x7s you see on all the '98+ S10s on a Malibu before as well.

Yep. '80 or '81 was the first year for the 'Bu I believe. It was very basic compared to today though. Basically a computer-controlled carburetor and distributor (may have had an O2 sensor too). You should be able to just switch your carburetor and distributor with an older year, then you can...

Sticky? I would imagine some of the T-10s/T-16s were in Ford or Chrysler vehicles, don't quote me. The rings mentioned that are on the input shaft run perpendicular to the splines, around shaft, seen here: http://www.auto-ware.com/techref/transratios.htm MANUALS Ways to i.d. what ratios the...

Also, are you talking about a TKO 5-speed? If so, he's in luck :) http://www.ttcautomotive.com/English/news/20news.asp

I'd keep portions of the stock wiring along with the ecm (just pull the SES light bulb :lol:), I don't think it'd be too hard to put a reluctor wheel on the output shaft of a Tremec, though they oughta make them to work with a vss. I'm looking at a diagram of the 4.3 controls in my Haynes...

:oops:

Checking for the arc is checking to see if you have a draw somewhere in the system, it doesn't really say anything about the diode(s).

This was what I was thinking was wrong. I don't know all the ins & outs of alternators, but I knew there could be an internal symptom that would do this (just didn't know what it was exactly).

Sounds like your alternator may not be up to the task if he said it should hold the voltage no matter what (being 140A it should run those fans with a minimal drop). Taking it somewhere to have it tested would be the first thing I'd do.

Sounds like there is something on the tach that's keeping the needle from moving. Couldn't say for sure if the tach is good or not, but it's worth taking a close look at the spindle for the needle.

It filters out electrical noise. You won't need it with an aftermarket tach, and seems like everybody I've read from says you don't need it for the stock one either. My stock one has never been accurate, so I might try a filter come time to drive the 'Bu again.