MANUAL BRAKE

[10secBu]

I've got a stock brake pedal sitting right here.

Length from the pedal pivot to the middle of the brake pad is 13 1/2"

Length from the pedal pivot to the factory power pushrod location is 3 7/8"

Length from the pedal pivot to the factory manual pushrod location is 2 3/16".

13.5 divided by 3.875" = 3.48 to 1 power pedal ratio

13.5 divided by 2.1875 = 6.17 to 1 facory manual pedal ratio

Now, by the pictures I saw, the Steel Concepts is close to center of the factory manual and power hole locations...which would be approx 3".

13.5 divided by 3 = 4.5 pedal ratio for the Steel Concepts kit.

Is my math wrong here? Am I missing something?

Don't get me wrong, the kit looks great, I just want to make sure it's properly designed in terms of pedal ratio for proper pressure at the calipers.

I mean no disrespect to Travis, rather just some clarification to the pedal ratio as the kit is designed.

The hole thing started when you said that the kit wasnt designed correctly.
The pedal ratio is important but you are trying to say that a 1/2" lower than stock is going to be the difference in stopping or not. If you put the rod in the stock location you will have to push the pedal towards the floor further than if you lower the rod to where I have it set at. When you push the pedal with my kit installed the pedal moves about 3" and your stopped. If you want to figure ratio on brake pedals you can do that, But I dont want you bashing my product because you think it is engineered wrong. I installed one 80bu car and tested the brakes several times and no problems.

I appologize if it wounded like I was bashing. That was not my intention.

In my case, I was planning to install Strange race discs on all 4 corners. I would tend to think this setup would require more volume than a stock disc drum setup, which wouldn't that require more pedal travel given the same 1 1/6" bore master cylinder you provide?

Strange recommends 1 1/8" bore for 4 wheel disc...not sure if the 1/16" of bore difference is noticable in volume/pressure or not...again assuming race style 4 wheel disc with 4 piston calipers.

Again, sorry for any negative tone which may have been conveyed in my original reply.

Todd

 

[Sandy]

My thanks to 10secBu for providing the explanation, dimensions and calculations.

What he has provided is facts about the stock manual setup.

The point was to find out where the stock manual master cylinder was mounted and where the manual pushrod was mounted on the pedal. This was done clearly and concisely.

Don't think there is any intent to knock anyone's aftermarket products just to find out what can be done with the stock setup.

Not everyone wants or needs aftermarket stuff, but for those that do, fine lots of great stuff out there.

Thanks again 10secBu.

 

[Anonymous]

Bore size matter most...As supe said it boggle the mind when guys convert...Being a guy that has swapped brakes in power and manual setups before pedal feel and travel have more to do with the bore size...

If you have a factory manual car then you wouldnt need to look into this post...No i dont run the sc parts but i know that id rather worry about bore size to match my calipers/cylinders or calipers calipers...

 

[Sandy]

Getting closer and closer, a bit behind schedule, still racing the Beaumont.

The Malibu just needs driveshaft, driveshaft loop, transmission cooling lines, fuel lines, replace 5/8 with 3/4 heim joints on the front of ladder bars and line loc and will be ready to fire and start testing.

Anyone out there got a spare manual brake pedal with the stock pin in the upper location or know where to find one ?

 

[CutlassRacer]

We recently installed a Steel Concepts brake kit on our 81 Malibu Wagon with stock brakes all the way around. With the kit installed per the instructions, they were a little too stiff for our liking. I checked the angles and moved the pushrod up to the factory hole and the brakes had a much much better feel to them.