What A-arms and coil overs to get. A little confused

[Chevy2410]

Hi all,

I've got an 80' Malibu and it's currently using stock A-arm with 1' lowering coils and 2' drop spindles. I'm looking to get tubular A-arms and a set of coil overs, but not sure what brand to get. I've looked at UMI, Ridetech, Speedtech Performance, and BMR for the A-arms. As far as the coil overs go I've looked at Ridetech, QA1's and Viking. Do I need double adjustable? I'm really not sure what to get. This car is really just for cruising and the occasionally taking it down the track and autocross. But when I come across a nice twisty road, then I want something that handles. Right now it's not bad with stock control arms and the drop springs, but I know it can be better. I'v got larger front sway bar and braces from the front crossmember to the frame rails and two braces from the core support to the cowel. I noticed with some of the A-arms you can get taller ball joints and delrin bushings. Why I would need taller ball joints? Are Delrin better than Polyurethane? I was planning on doing the blazer spindle/brake upgrade soon as I can find a set to pull from a 2wd Blazer. Not many around my area. Would taller ball joints work with the blazer spindle?

Anyway let me know what you guys are using or think would be the best. If you're using something give me your input.

Thanks,
Chevy

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I know some people will give me flack for this next statement, but I wouldn't use poly on anything other than on the bushings & end links for an anti sway bar. No matter what, it WILL turn to mush. It's not a matter of if, but when. Why do you think no production cars use it? As for raised ball joints, it's a cheap way to improve camber gain, but it's a rediculousy small change. That modification came from oval track racing classes that require stock suspensions. The best way to improve handling would be to get a suspension kit from S C & C, but since you're not looking to go full bore, the next best way to do it is to use the proper aftermarket upper A-arms & B-body spindles. That will also allow you to upgrade to 12" 1LE brakes.

Tommy

 

[Chevy2410]

I know some people will give me flack for this next statement, but I wouldn't use poly on anything other than on the bushings & end links for an anti sway bar. No matter what, it WILL turn to mush. It's not a matter of if, but when. Why do you think no production cars use it? As for raised ball joints, it's a cheap way to improve camber gain, but it's a rediculousy small change. That modification came from oval track racing classes that require stock suspensions. The best way to improve handling would be to get a suspension kit from S C & C, but since you're not looking to go full bore, the next best way to do it is to use the proper aftermarket upper A-arms & B-body spindles. That will also allow you to upgrade to 12" 1LE brakes.

Tommy

OK, so for the extra cash getting tall ball joints with the tubular control arms is not worth it and I should just stay with the regular ball joints. As far as control arms go, is there much of a difference, weather it's quality or whatever, between UMI vs. Ridetech vs. speed tech? The Ridetech A-arms are the most expensive, followed by speed tech and finally UMI. I guess I should look at it this way in that any of these A-arms are better than the stamped stock ones I'm currently using. I would like to have someones opinion on A-arms. I'm not familiar with the B-body spindles. I was going to do the Blazer brake upgrade. Can I sill do it if I use B-body spindles? Is it that I use the B-body spindles and the Blazer Hub, calliper, etc? I'm also not familiar with the 1LE brakes. Could you explain?


Thanks,
Chevy

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I'm not sure if you can use the B-body spindle kit if you're going to use the Blazer brakes. I think that only works on the G-body spindle. The 1LE brake conversion uses the 12" rotors from IROC Camaros or WS6 Firebirds & older Camaro or 1/2 ton pickup calipers. I don't think any of the A-arms you listed will give you improved suspension geometry, either, but they're all nicer than stock A-arms.

Tommy

 

[malibulvr]

I know some people will give me flack for this next statement, but I wouldn't use poly on anything other than on the bushings & end links for an anti sway bar. No matter what, it WILL turn to mush. It's not a matter of if, but when. Why do you think no production cars use it? As for raised ball joints, it's a cheap way to improve camber gain, but it's a rediculousy small change. That modification came from oval track racing classes that require stock suspensions. The best way to improve handling would be to get a suspension kit from S C & C, but since you're not looking to go full bore, the next best way to do it is to use the proper aftermarket upper A-arms & B-body spindles. That will also allow you to upgrade to 12" 1LE brakes.

Tommy

OK, so for the extra cash getting tall ball joints with the tubular control arms is not worth it and I should just stay with the regular ball joints. As far as control arms go, is there much of a difference, weather it's quality or whatever, between UMI vs. Ridetech vs. speed tech? The Ridetech A-arms are the most expensive, followed by speed tech and finally UMI. I guess I should look at it this way in that any of these A-arms are better than the stamped stock ones I'm currently using. I would like to have someones opinion on A-arms. I'm not familiar with the B-body spindles. I was going to do the Blazer brake upgrade. Can I sill do it if I use B-body spindles? Is it that I use the B-body spindles and the Blazer Hub, calliper, etc? I'm also not familiar with the 1LE brakes. Could you explain?


Thanks,
Chevy

It is my understanding that to do the S10 Blazer brake upgrade you have to use everything S10 Blazer from the Spindle outwards, i.e. Spindles, wheel hubs, calipers, and hoses.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

If you do the Blazer spindles & brakes, you get somewhat better braking, but you still have the stock front end geometry. B body 12" disc spindles & Global West or Hotchkis upper A arms (there may be others designed for B body spindles) is the only semi low-buck way to get any type of real improvement in handling & the 12" brakes are MUCH better than the stock 10.5" rotors.

Tommy

 

[Chevy2410]

Hey Tommy,

If I get a kit from SC&C do I have to make sure that I have the B-body spindles? These spindles are "taller" and correct G-body geometry. So I should be looking in the B-body section at SC&C? I've been really thinking of my front suspension for a while now and been reading about G-bodies not having the correct geometry. I really want my car to handle right. What should I be looking at?

Thanks,
Chevy

 

[LS6 Tommy]

No, the SC&C package updates the geometry. Their stuff is GREAT! I would have gone that way if it was available when I did my suspension.

Tommy

 

[Chevy2410]

No, the SC&C package updates the geometry. Their stuff is GREAT! I would have gone that way if it was available when I did my suspension.

Tommy

So I should dump the drop spindles and get stock Gbody spindles and get the SC&C kit. If I use the drop spindles and the SC&C kit will that correct the geometry? I was looking at this kit

http://scandc.com/new/node/736

and was wondering if you happen to know what spring rates the spring are for front and rear?

Thanks,
Chevy

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I've never worked with SC&C's stuff so I can't answer those questions. I would just call Marcus. He's a really cool guy & knows his product inside & out.

Tommy