What A-arms and coil overs to get. A little confused

nillabu

Dragway Regular
May 16, 2008
778
0
16
St. Cloud, Minnesota
Glued to this forum! Great conversation Chevy and SRD. Don't want to high jack it. What size wheels on the Buick? 17's or maybe 18's? 6" frame to ground seems and looks about right. Looking to get mine up alittle also. Don't have an exact measurement frame to ground but my top of opening to ground is right at 24", inch. Too low for me. I'm right at the rubber bump stops with 17's, "B" body spindles, trimmed Moog's and stock lowers. It sits very similar to yours did "Chevy." For sure nice Malibu! Wondering if you were able to find 9" 550# hybrid coils yet? Everything I see is either 10" or 11". Also, as far as you know, do any of the after market coil/over specific LCA's move the shock lower than the stock LCA's? Thanks!

Steve
 

SRD art

Amateur Racer
Jun 21, 2011
169
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0
Utah
www.streetroddesigns.com
18x9s with 275mm tires on the front of the Buick.

Unfortunately the Viking hybrid coilovers only have 10" and 11" springs. I would imagine that's an engineering concern (?) as Viking (and other coilover mfgs) have several different height springs for traditional coilovers.

I think Ridetechs are the only lower arms that won't accept both a coilover or a traditional coil spring. With that in mind, typically spring pocket locations/ dimensions are based off of the factory arms. Not sure on the others brands, but aside from the spring pockets being in a stock location both the upper AND lower Speedtech arms have additional caster built into them. Out of all the cars we make parts for, the G body is the only one that has that. That should give us a clue on how lousy the original geometry is. I've seen some lower arms with dropped pockets for additional ride height drop but they look like a nightmare and ground clearance problem waiting to happen. Maybe they work great if you want to drop the frame on the ground at the show, but I wouldn't run 'em on the street. Jmo.

These things are wicked. I have them on my car and are 100 times more effective than rubber. They absorb almost all of the impact as the car articulates through the corners but don't rebound and bounce the car back up like rubber.
 
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Chevy2410

Weekend Racer
Thread starter
Dec 29, 2011
58
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6
British Columbia, Canada
Sounds like you're on track with the ride height you want. If you haven't already done so, one thing you can try is mounting the shock below the spring pocket on the lower arm i/e the shock t-bar will be bolted up against the bottom of the control arm spring cup, instead of on top of the spring cup. That alone will give you about that much difference because you're essentially dropping the thread range of the shock the thickness of the T bar plus the thickness of the spring cup. I'll measure Blake's Grand National's frame height when I get to the shop tomorrow, he has Speedtech arms and coilovers and we'll see how his compares to our cars.

I was actually thinking of trying it. I'm just wondering if I do it will there be any issues with try it raise the thrust bearing to give the car some height. Those spanner wrenches are a bit long. Could be an issue. Do you know anyone who has mounted those coil overs underneath the LCA spring pocket? I hope there's enough room to be able to adjust the rebound and compression knobs.

Chevy
 

nillabu

Dragway Regular
May 16, 2008
778
0
16
St. Cloud, Minnesota
Thanks Ben, those look interesting http://scandc.com/new/node/690 I kinda know your feelings on the "B" body spindle swap, but in my case, it's what I installed back when it was the only other option. It stops great!! I know it doesn't help the poor suspension geometry on the gbody much and I really don't see the "bump steer" issue yet. The fact that I'm on the bump stops at rest, and really have no front suspension, may have something to do with that. In your opinion, what effect would a dedicated coil/over LCA have on the geometry with the taller "B" body spindle? My uppers are the Hotchkis, meant for the swap. Again, stock lowers currently.

I believe I have about as much caster in it as possible. On the plus side of 4 degrees. My current shim packs are evidence of excessive positive camber and the extra caster. I think raising it an inch or so will help bring the camber back negative a bit and maybe reduce the shim packs, not to mention give me alittle suspension again.

Ultimately, I'd like to install a front coil/over package and skip efforts to find just the right coil spring without multiple R&R and spring trimming.

When I do that, taking the wife out before hand sounds like a great idea. Hope I haven't high jacked this thread from Chevy. Both of you have brought out some great information. Thanks!

Steve
 

SRD art

Amateur Racer
Jun 21, 2011
169
0
0
Utah
www.streetroddesigns.com
I enjoy sharing thoughts here but consider that what I share is based on my research, building my car, and now add to that working for a great pro touring suspension company. When I designed my suspension I intended to make a presence at autocross events with a car built on a budget. I drive it everyday, but I'm pretty serious about going around corners as fast as I can. In time you'll see even more changes to the suspension as I get out to more events and hone my driving skills. I wanted to throw this in as if to say what I might suggest is because of the way I drive my car and may not fit everyone's build. On the other hand, my philosophy is if you're gonna build it, you'd just as well set it up so that it does well when you do go to the track. Even if you only occasionally see track time, at least you know your car is better than your driving skills and not boring because your skills are beyond what the car can deliver.

Chevy- We have done it this way in the shop before with coilovers. To avoid clearance issues between the shock and bolt heads we'd recommend running the bolts down through control arm with the nuts on the bottom, you may even need to use button head bolts. Not sure on the UMI arms you just have to be sure you have decent clearance between the bolts and the shock body. It would be easy enough to mock it up with your current hardware and if there's any issues a quick run to the hardware store could get you different style bolts.

Steve- Isn't it great how things evolve? At first we experiment and work with what we have, then in time companies take the ball and run with it developing something even better.

I thought of doing the B body swap when I first put my car together but after researching things decided against it. At the time the Hotchkis arms to fix the camber curve seemed spendy and to get a better camber curve is duplicatable with stock spindles and tall ball joints. Keep in mind too the steering arms are intended for, and in position for, a B body car, which is completely different than a G body. The way the car turns and how all the suspension and steering components react to hard cornering will be different too. Consider this, if GM could have used the same parts on each car they would have to cut costs, but instead they spent plenty of $ developing suspension components matched to each individual car. B body or 2nd gen Camaro taller spindles adapted to a G body was a good idea in theory but not necessarily the optimum set up for traversing the cones. My opinion is it worked until something better was developed. How much of a better time will either suspension choice translate to at the track? Probably no one really knows, you'd have to have two identical cars except the front suspension set up and have the same driver go beat on both of them to really know.

Bump steer can be felt the most under full lock steering, like pulling into a parking space. It's when the tires are not pointed in the same direction to manage the different curve radius' the tires travel around corners. When bump steer is high as they fight each other trying to travel different paths the steering will bump back and forth. You don't really feel it as much while driving the car but it's there to some degree. As the suspension articulates the steering linkage becomes "shorter" or "longer" and changes the alignment. You will see this accentuated if you slam the car and the tie rods point upwards as they head to the spindle, which is to say extreme lowering a car alone isn't the answer to better cornering. Basically said, in a racing situation you want to set things up so that everything remains in a manageable range so that all parts work in harmony to get around the curve. Changing the caster setting for the positive on G bodies and getting the camber curve towards the negative all play factors too. I don't know much about those Hotchkis arms and what they changed in geometry settings but my understanding they were designed specifically to help with the bump steer that the taller GM spindles caused.

More aggressive caster adds to more aggressive handling in most cases but changes the way the car feels for normal driving. We recommend generally that caster be initially set around 5 deg positive and you can add more as you tune your individual set up. The combination of our upper and lower control arms comes in about 4 degrees positive on their own and the alignment will add more.

You're on the right track with wanting to swap in coilovers, it's so much easier to make adjustments with the suspension all intact rather than tearing it all apart again and again to get the optimum spring in there. Now that I've been driving the car for almost 2 years and have raced it a bit I'm leaning towards the convenience of the coilovers too. The biggest advantage you'll see from swapping over is better spring rates and compression/rebound adjustability, added to that the ability to tune things on the fly. The control arms themselves positively affect the geometry more than a coilover will, and adding the AFX spindle with the custom relocated steering arms adds even more benefit. Hopes that answers your question.

Speedtech makes a "Chicane" bracket kit that converts a regular chassis to accept true coilovers with standard (non hybrid) coilover springs. We sell them for all the cars we make parts for EXCEPT the G body, see here... http://www.speedtechperformance.com...duct_id=12/category_id=23/mode=prod/prd12.htm The biggest factor is that G bodies are a little behind the popularity curve in the pro touring world compared to the more common Camaros and such. I asked the boss again today about it and his response is we need to see more G body demand. By far we sell less G body stuff compared to the other cars, I think most modified G bodies are going straight real fast instead of chasing cones. When I'm ready to pull the trigger I will be bugging them more and suggest my car is the guinea pig to develop the brackets for the G body. Having you guys speak up (and buy more parts ;) ) will help put the pressure on to add those coilover brackets to the line up. :D
 

nillabu

Dragway Regular
May 16, 2008
778
0
16
St. Cloud, Minnesota
Thanks Ben,

Pretty sure the Hotchkis arms were designed for the B body swap as you described and also to help eliminate the massive positive camber (rollover) the outside tire and wheel experienced during hard cornering. That and the fact it allowed an easy and cheap upgrade to larger brakes. Unfortunately, not much else as you described. To switch to a true coilover (non-hybrid), I have seen the top shock mounts replaced to the much stronger unit as your link shows. Is there any evidence has to what may happen to the factory top mounts attempting to switch to a true coilover setup or is a matter of coil over overall length options? I spent several weeks rewelding and semi-smoothing EVERY, and I mean EVERY, factory weld on my frame before rear notch, prep and powdercoating ](*,) Top shock mounts included. We still have winter here in Central Minnesota, car is still under cover and LCA's and coil overs are on the top of the list if spring ever gets here. All option considered. Thanks again!

Steve
 

Chevy2410

Weekend Racer
Thread starter
Dec 29, 2011
58
0
6
British Columbia, Canada
You are right Ben, about the springs only coming in 10 or 11" for the "hybrid" coil over. I called Viking today and they confirmed. So they are again recommending going with the 450lb spring. They are offering a nice discount for the issue that I'm in. Normal price for the spring is like $63 and they sell to me for $40. I'm gonna think on this one. We haven't had very good weather for me to get the car to friends garage to try remounting of the shock. The weekend is not looking to good. :(

Chevy
 

Chevy2410

Weekend Racer
Thread starter
Dec 29, 2011
58
0
6
British Columbia, Canada
I thought I would post a pic of what the car looks like with new controls arm and coil overs.
I had the trunk full of stuff. Should have emptied it first, but you get the idea. Back end is a little higher with it emptied.

 

Redline8k

Member
Dec 28, 2012
8
0
0
so you are running the umi upper and lower control arms and viking coilovers (lowered all the way down) with 450 springs. what is the rear suspension and what tire sizes are you running. Im trying to do a 2.5in drop in the front and at least 2in in the rear with a 275/60/15...

Great convo by the way, I learned alot about the different control arms and front suspension all together...thanks

-nick
 

Chevy2410

Weekend Racer
Thread starter
Dec 29, 2011
58
0
6
British Columbia, Canada
Redline8k said:
so you are running the umi upper and lower control arms and viking coilovers (lowered all the way down) with 450 springs. what is the rear suspension and what tire sizes are you running. Im trying to do a 2.5in drop in the front and at least 2in in the rear with a 275/60/15...

Great convo by the way, I learned alot about the different control arms and front suspension all together...thanks

-nick

Hey Nick,

Yes I'm running the UMI U/L control arms and Viking Coil/overs in front, but with a 550lb spring. That's why the front looks high. It's al the way down. Viking has sent me the 450lb spring, but I haven't have the time to swap them in. Rear suspension consists of Detroit Speed 2" drop springs and Viking D/A shocks. As far as tires go the are 245/60 15 in the rear and 225/60 15 up front. The rear tires have about 1/4 clearance to the quarter fender lip. I could most likely get more clearance if I have more backspace. I'm not sure what an original corvette rally wheels B/S is, but could be a little more.

Chevy
 

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