What are you using for rear suspension?

[Bad Medicine Racing]

My Malibu has an 8.5 out of a GN and I am about to spend some money to get this junk to hook. If you guys would please, all the people with GM (10 bolt 12 bolt) rears, if you have consistent 60' times of 1.50 OR LESS with a trans brake, please post up what you are using for rear suspension. All you 9" guys can post too, but please note that you have the 9"in your reply because the 9 is an automatic instant center change. So what is everyone using? Control arms, Baseline maybe?, arm relocation brackets, no hop bars, Southsides, whatever you did to get your short times this low consistently. If you don't want to post it for the world to see, please PM me with it. Thanks for your time guys.

-Chris

 

[10secBu]

Consistent traction on a G-body has more to do with the front suspension than the rear. Proper front end travel for good weight transfer is critical in mid & lower powered cars.

 

[racecar77]

The rear suspension on these cars is "geometrically correct" . They don't take much to work very well. Some good double adjustable control arms, anti-roll bar, stock springs, and some decent shocks. That's all you need. There are many cars on this site that are BAD fast with only those modifications. Lee

 

[Bad Medicine Racing]

I guess it don't matter now, something broke in the 4LsuckyE in my truck yesterday so that is going to have to be fixed first. Thought it sucked the filter, but upon removal of the pan it looks like a thrust washer came apart.

 

[BMR Sales]

When you get ready to upgrade your suspension please give BMR a shot at your business. We offer both adjustable and non adjustable upper and lower control arms as well as our Xtreme anti roll bar that will stop any body roll issues your car has. We also have lower control arm relocation brackets that relocate your control arm rear mounting points and improve your cars instant center. Here is a link to our site. Give me a call if you have any questions or would like to place an order.

http://www.bmrfabrication.com/G-Body.htm

 

[CutlassRacer]

The new TRZ 9" rear ends have the "GM locations" for the control arms. If Eric's wagon goes slower than 1.25 to the 60ft its a bad run. The best run so far began with a 1.180 60ft on 275 radials.

Check out TRZ Motorsports for the same products that are on both of Eric's cars:

 

[UMI Sales]

Hello
I just wanted to throw this out there for you as another suggestion! UMI Performance offers a wide variety of suspension parts to meet your needs. Anything from a Daily Driver to a Single Digit Race Car. Below is a link to show you what all we have to offer. And when you purchase from UMI Performance you are getting a great quality product that is made right here in our own facility in the USA!

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=8&zenid=ojrkt9qbm82dj452ms1di4if66

If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks
Brad

 

[Bad Medicine Racing]

The new TRZ 9" rear ends have the "GM locations" for the control arms. If Eric's wagon goes slower than 1.25 to the 60ft its a bad run. The best run so far began with a 1.180 60ft on 275 radials.

This is more along the lines of the info I am looking for, thanks.


Since my original question is not really giving me the answers I am looking for, I will ask something else. The factory suspension setup on these cars is meant to ride nice and smooth. In stock trim the intersect point of the bars is way out in front of the car. In everything I have studied about hooking a car the intersect point of the bars is critical, and if it's way out in front of the car and way off the ground in theory this is not SUPPOSED to work. I understand that the better uppers and lowers make the car more rigid, but I am failing to understand WHY if it won't work with stock arms in stock locations that just putting better arms on it and putting some pinion angle in it makes it work SO much better. The TRZ 9 with the adjustable brackets are awesome to say the least, but out of my budget. I don't want to start a sponsor war but, from what I have learned about 4 links, the BaseLine looks like it would be the best for the money. Bottom bars flat and top bars pointed down is in theory the best setup. This reasoning is why I wanted to know what everyone was running so I might get some insight on how and why it would work another way. Right now I have Lakewood No Hops on my car and it hits the tire too hard. It hooks when you let go of the button and goes about a foot and starts spinning. I feel like I need something in between stock and the no hops on the top for it to work the way I want it to. One of the reasons I joined up here was to try to get my car hooking better.

-Chris

 

[1982 SS]

I realize my El Camino is no where near as quick as what you're looking for, it runs 13.0's and it 60's in 1.75 footbraking it with the factory f41 bars front and rear and global west bushings in the front control arms . but I do have something you may find useful. I've read the baseline suspensions page and I have my Camino set up with the instant center 62" in front of the rear axle on the neutral line of the car. Now for the bits and pieces, I am using parts from Dick Miller Racing (Dickmillerracing.com). Its a relocation bracket for the upper control arms and its mounting location is nowhere near as high as the lakewood pieces or the edelbrock anti hops. My dad has the edelbrock pieces in his '64 Buick and it hits the tires so hard it almost unloads them and he just a little slower than I am at 13.20's and 1.81 60's... Look at the dick miller pieces and see what you think, they sell upper and lower control arms, relocation brackets and springs. I didn't opt to use the springs because i still tow things with my camino and kinda need the load handling ability, but they claim the springs would help it work better.

 

[Bad Medicine Racing]

Thanks, I will check that out.

EDIT: Now that;s what I like to see! First pic on that site is a 1970 W-30 442 hanging the front wheels!

-Chris