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Since we're talkin' about the 6.2... Is the LS9 a variation of the LS7?

I could be wrong, but I believe the L92 heads may only fit the LS2. I need to do some more reading myself, but it's worth the research (if you haven't looked into that aspect yet) before buying them. I plan to go with an LS series motor + T56 myself in my 'Bu.

If your harness doesn't have a plug for the white wire, you'll need to get one from a donor car, at least that's what I did.

You would need a reluctor ring and a speed sensor similar to what you'd see on a late model RWD car or truck (700R4/4L60/E for example, late 80s+ ). I'd imagine they have the stuff to retrofit it to a 400, but you'd have to pull the tailshaft housing off to put the ring on.

I would want an e-brake with having a manual car. Also thanks for posting that info 355_79, I was sure there was more needed than just bolting the rears on.

Yeah, there was a little talk in the original Xtreme/S-Blazer thread about the rear conversion, it was on a 12-bolt though. This is dwkohout's 12-bolt rear dwkohout's 12-bolt rear + S10 rear discs: Pics from the LS1 brake swap: It looks to me like the S10 setup would bolt on with the...

Looks like it to me. But from the work he did on the LS1 swap, it also looks like you could bolt the S-Series brakes on there too. I'd still go with the S-Series setup on the back, unless a)you were going with LS brakes in the front, or b)the LS rear brakes are the same diameter. dwkohout's...

Here's the link I posted in the other thread too, in case you missed it :) http://www.maliburacing.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=38400&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=

Here's the thread where it all started: http://www.maliburacing.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=38400&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight= Be sure to read the whole thread. dwkohout did it to the (I believe) 12-bolt in his Cutty. It may work on the other rears, but I'm not positive. If it does...

My dad's '03 Sierra has probably 130k (or more) on it now and it still runs like a top :)

Yeah, that's possible too, but I was voting for the easier check first :lol: A good way to check for that would be to unplug the harness on the column before you actually tear into it :)

Seems to me that something could be grounding out in that right turn signal circuit. Check your positive leads for your signal and brake lights as well.

Solid, poly, or rubber? It will be a street driven car, performance oriented suspension. I thought I'd read in the past about issues with poly bushings, but is that only with stuff like control arms/shocks/etc. where stuff is constantly moving around? I'm looking at a set of the Energy...

Your reasoning sounds reasonable :lol: When someone tried to steal my 'Bu they broke the slider inside the switch, so the ignition stayed on all the time, and I had to unplug the coil every time I wanted to stop the car from running. It's possible the spring inside the switch is weak as well?

Did a little looking since I had some immediate interest in this myself, and found this: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1419577&parttype=3656&a=FRc1419577k1002085 Supposedly it's the lock relay that's required for the circuit to work normally. You could most...

And you've tried just about everything you can think of? Could be the printed circuit board. That was my problem after I swapped gauges into mine. The plastic layers had separated and the copper was all corroded & broken.

The truck intakes flow better at mid-low air demand, better for torque is my understanding.

He posted zem at zee beginning of hizz post.

This I cannot say, only tanks I've worked on have been in-tank pump EFI ones, so the ground was part of the harness going to the pump IIRC. Had to disconnect most/all of the stuff before dropping the tank completely.

Yeah, the truck intakes are supposed to be better than the aftermarket & car intakes as far as low-midrange power from everything I've read.