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Here ya go... just kinda whipped it up :P The way the circuit works is that under normal conditions the lock button will lock all the locks. If the unlock button is pressed (even while the lock button is held down), the circuit to lock the doors will be interrupted, and polarity will be...

The wiring is time consuming, but it's not very difficult so long as you make sure you wire everything securely/correctly. Ok, it looks like there's a relay for them, though I don't know if it's a readily (like the typical SPDT you always see) available one. I wouldn't wire the lock motors...

The 'wetness' may have been helping with the ground a little bit :lol: Full=high resistance on the gauge.

The filter is basically a resistor & a couple capacitors designed to keep noise out of the circuit. I'll just build my own & see if that works.

And if I could only get the tach to be accurate :lol:

I'm just tossing around ideas, as it'll be a long time before I actually have to make a decision. I've been contemplating whether or not to use the factory gauge cluster: or go with a set of gauges in the cluster housing, laid out similar to the factory gauge setup. My current gauges are in...

earhole :roflback: I hope this doesn't happen with me!

Street? Strip? I think the 18 circuit one has all the extras for updated stuff (EFI, electric water/fuel pump/fans, radio 12v constant, etc.). So for the stuff you have toggles for you could tie into this new harness instead of using two harnesses. Just wire your 12v feed for each circuit...

Yeah, then you could take & burn everything to DVD and sell it on the site here for like $5 a pop, I almost guarantee you'd make all the money back ;) :lol:

If you're getting the 18 circuit block I'd probably just use it for the whole car, as I'm pretty sure that's what it's designed for.

Yeah, just lose the trim rings, maybe change the color and you're good ;)

.325mm or less overall size difference to put strain on the bolts... I don't think it'd be a problem. If you do run into fitment issues you could probably clearance the holes on the outer edge ever so slightly.

I'm thinking about maybe going with a Painless harness for an LS motor swap, but they're pricey :( Maybe I'll just see about the standalone computer. Come to think of it though, I may just go with an entirely new harness for the car so I don't have to worry about electrical gremlins down the...

That's what sucks when a vehicle sits... my truck sat from May 'til Octoberish, and the first time I hit the brakes after starting it up, the line running to the left rear brake cylinder sprung a leak :x I bought a new line, have it bent, but I need to shorten part of it and put another flare...

You oughta be fine triggering all the relays off the same port on the fuse panel, the coil inside the relay probably doesn't pull more than 200mA tops. I would probably daisy chain the ign. switched power across the toggles (some have screw-type terminals instead of being regular spades), and...

:awesome: glad you found it :D I cut one a long time ago on mine before I realized it was the feed for the high speed on the blower motor :P Now I only have low, low-med, and med-high, but no high. No biggie, because I rarely used the blower motor anyway.

It may be turboed, I'm not sure. But the Bonneville I know is s/c. Checking the site again, there have been 4 Grand Prixs that've taken that Bonneville's place (all turbos), the fastest now at 9.011... holy crap... http://www.3800pro.com/lists/fwdquarter.html

Give the fusible links a look, if your car has the original wiring they'll be down by the starter, cylindrical, about 1/2" max diameter. There are 4 or 5 IIRC coming off the starter post for power to the car.

Check you fuse for the interior lights too.

I've thought about it before, never really wanted to try it though. Last time I checked on 3800pro.com the fastest guy was in something like an '00 or '01 Bonneville SSEi running low 10s. There's a guy in the area around here (friend of someone I work with) with a s/c Impala that's in the 11s...