388bu's LQ4 swap thread - Its alive!
- Thread starter 388bu
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Yup, did that. Those are good. Problem is ive got about 83 connections underneath(temporary) where it could be. My gut is still telling me at the collectors though.StreetBu said:
388bu said:
So, my question is, where is the back of the block in relation to the OE location? Do I understand correctly that the block/bell junction is approx 1" closer to the firewall than the original setup?
And, part 2...Does the CTS pan require that much setback to clear the suspension crossmember?
And, part 3....Any idea on A/C compressor clearance?
Trying to map out the best setup, but I will need to keep an un-notched crossmember, and really need to keep the A/C on the car. I'll be using an 02 LS1 sourced from a Camaro. I see Kwik makes an A/C relocation kit for about $200, which then requires a Sanden compressor, so I'd prefer to avoid that avenue. Also concerned that setback will cause coil-A/C box problems.
Good work, though. I'm impressed with how quickly it all cam together. Doesn't seem like that long ago I saw where you were talking about leaning to an LS swap, and here we are all done. =D>
Thanks.Ribbedroof said:
Q1: Basically the trans is 3/4" further forward than it used to be with the SBC. The motor is set back about 3/4" form where it normally would be if you used these carshop inc mounts and bolted the frame part into the stock location.
Q2: No, I could move the motor forward at least a good inch if I wanted to.
Q3: I am almost positive that the f-body A/C will NOT work at all using these type of mounts. (adapter plates with the old clamshell SBC mounts) If you want to use the F-body, or truck for that matter AC then you would have to look into a mount like BRP sells. I would be concerned with hood clearance with a truck intake and the BRP mounts however. I have heard of people using a 4.3? A/C bracket and mounting an older style R4? compressor in the upper left.
What are your plans? LS1? 6.0?
Well, despite the backwards logic, the wagon will be getting the LS1 and trans first. I figure it should be way plenty for it's intended use. Can always mod it later if it isn't "enough".
After it's up and running, the 2 door will get a transplant...probably depends on what's available then, although i do know a guy with a low mile 5.3/ auto OD pullout for dirt cheap.
After it's up and running, the 2 door will get a transplant...probably depends on what's available then, although i do know a guy with a low mile 5.3/ auto OD pullout for dirt cheap.
You are running a MAFless system right. Whats the advantages/ disadvantages of this because I would think that It really wouldn't make that much difference. I would almost think the computer would need the MAF sensor to run the motor.
No, I am running a MAF. Some people lose the MAF and run in speed density mode however. I think people mostly start doing this in high horsepower boosted applications generally.bowtie29 said:
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