Well kind of, I looking for ideas on how to do the steering shaft from the factory column to a pinto rack.
Pix??????????
Pix??????????
Another rack and pinion????
- Thread starter gman415
- Start date
You can get a u-joint that fits the factory column up at the firewall, then a u-joint that fits the rack, connect them with some 3/4" tube and you are done.
I think I will run into clearance issues. I was hoping for a pic I've seen on here before (no luck with search) were the shaft goes through the frame under the motor mount.
Hopefully it was my pics that you remember... 
It's been in about three different ways with different joint configs to clear three different sets of headers. I don't have any pics of the current routing, but this is from the 2010 and 2009 configs.
-You need the stabilizer rod end when using 2 universal joints to hold the shaft true and I am using DD shaft to adapt the column to a joint, and there is a special splined adapter that goes from 3/4 round or DD tube to the pinto rack. Also, by using factory tie rod ends as seen, I have eliminated any bump steer, and I didn't have to drill my spindles or buy any special adapters. I made the aluminum tie rod adjusters and machined down the tie rod ends so the threads are the same size.
-You also won't lose any turning radius like with the TRZ kit if you do it like I did and use a generic Wilwood pinto rack (picked it up brand new at a swap meet). I have about $400 in the entire setup, the joints are pricey but it is worth buying good ones. The only thing I am going to change is to bend up a lighter mount setup for the rack...It is currently made from extra rollcage tubing I had.
It's been in about three different ways with different joint configs to clear three different sets of headers. I don't have any pics of the current routing, but this is from the 2010 and 2009 configs.-You need the stabilizer rod end when using 2 universal joints to hold the shaft true and I am using DD shaft to adapt the column to a joint, and there is a special splined adapter that goes from 3/4 round or DD tube to the pinto rack. Also, by using factory tie rod ends as seen, I have eliminated any bump steer, and I didn't have to drill my spindles or buy any special adapters. I made the aluminum tie rod adjusters and machined down the tie rod ends so the threads are the same size.
-You also won't lose any turning radius like with the TRZ kit if you do it like I did and use a generic Wilwood pinto rack (picked it up brand new at a swap meet). I have about $400 in the entire setup, the joints are pricey but it is worth buying good ones. The only thing I am going to change is to bend up a lighter mount setup for the rack...It is currently made from extra rollcage tubing I had.
Thanks, I have a used narrowed rack but no tie rod ends or steering shaft. Just looking for ideas on how to do it.
The tie rod ends are pretty much none existent.
The tie rod ends are pretty much none existent.
mean78malibu. Do you have a build thread on this? I was looking into doing a rack and pinion set up on my wagon. I see that TRZ and TNT both make kits, but I like to build stuff myself and with the kits being $650-700, i'm also looking for a way to save a few bucks.
1980PontiacWagon said:
I can't remember all threads I have up, but those are probably the best pics I have. You can PM me anytime if you need anything and I can try to post it up or give you a call. TRZ and TNT make great stuff, I own parts from them both, but this is an easy project if you have some patience. My car was supposed to be a 'street' car when we started, that's why I used the wider rack and factory tie rod ends.
Just in case someone else is looking, I found the pix I was thinking of http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42514&highlight=rack+g+body It's in the pix ILLEGAL REGAL posted
mean78malibu said:
Have you actually checked the bumpsteer on your car? From the way I understand the front suspension geometry (and I could definitely be wrong) there will always be much more bump steer with the wider racks than the narrower rack, no matter what ends you use to attach the rack to the spindle.
I never measured it, but at full travel extended and compressed, I don't see any additional toe in or out. It stays stable on the top end when hard on the brakes and launches straight. The rack pivot points are a few inches out from the lower control arm mounting point on each side which I thought would be an issue..but it isn't.
If I was in FL, i'd bring it over so we could scratch our heads.
If I was in FL, i'd bring it over so we could scratch our heads.
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