building a 406

xtremeclonedss

Amateur Racer
May 22, 2003
228
0
0
Kansas City, MO
alright guys I do not know much about the internals etc of motors.

i have a 400 sbc that is original(i have not taken it apart or to a machine shop yet) and am getting ready to start gathering parts to put it together. I been reading post here and everywhere. multiple combinations but have seen some reoccuring parts.

My goal right now is to build this motor on a budget of $2000 if possible. It will be mainly a street car but in a few years i want to be able to race it and if I get to it maybe spray it(nothing crazy but say 150 shot). Right now i only drive it to a car show once or twice a month.

i am looking at pistons and rods and wanting to know what is a good piston to get.

Rods: 5.7 or 6.0? Seen where extra machining for clearance for the 6.0 needed. then I-beam or H-beam.

Thinking forged on these items with stock 400 crank. is this a good idea or should i just get a forged crank as well.
sorry it is like a book I typed but just asking questions.
 

grizwald

Top Fueler
Feb 21, 2008
3,298
0
36
Ontario, Canada
you'll be $2000K in parts easily. you'll want forged internals if you plan to spray it (including crank). also, just some other stuff to consider...replace the rocker studs with screw in. put a screen kit in the oil return holes in the intake valley (if you plan to ever run roller rockers). maybe consider splayed caps (assuming you have a 2 bolt block). these are all things i haven't done and wished i would have.
 

xtremeclonedss

Amateur Racer
Thread starter
May 22, 2003
228
0
0
Kansas City, MO
I have a 509 block from a van with a 400turbo. the truck only showed 75k on it.

I am assuming it is a 2bolt block and was planning on splaying it on the bottom end.

Thanks for the heads up on the pricing of parts. Momma wont be happy...lol
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
hard to beat this deal but it is probably possible:

http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BR406D

BR357F.gif
 

prairiehotrodder

Pro Stocker
Dec 17, 2005
1,571
2
38
43
Melfort Saskatchewan Canada
save money by not buying the forged stuff except for pistons. use 5.7 stock rods with arp bolts. use good forged pistons and arp main studs to keep the 2 bolt caps from walking. buy some good budget iron heads with 200cc intake or smaller (dart iron eagles or similar) shoot for 9.5 CR use comp roll er tip rockers and a cam cut on a 108 if no nos and 112 if using nos. You don't need alot of exspensive stuff to have fun and decent durability. BTW- get it balanced. try and find a piston in .020 oversize, don't go more than .030. have fun
Brian
 

xtremeclonedss

Amateur Racer
Thread starter
May 22, 2003
228
0
0
Kansas City, MO
Guys thanks for the comments!

As far as heads go, I wanted to keep the whole motor old looking and have a set of double hump heads on the motor.

I will keep this in mind when collecting parts.
 

prairiehotrodder

Pro Stocker
Dec 17, 2005
1,571
2
38
43
Melfort Saskatchewan Canada
i think dart or somebody makes heads that have the factory looking camel humps on them. The original heads are a huge cork. i would sell them to somebody restoring something. In no time you will have as much money into them as a good set of sportsmans cost.
Brian
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
xtremeclonedss said:
Guys thanks for the comments!

As far as heads go, I wanted to keep the whole motor old looking and have a set of double hump heads on the motor.

I will keep this in mind when collecting parts.



The vortec heads will wake that motor up a bunch, and are good for a street strip motor on a budget.
 

TNTS79

Dragway Regular
Jan 6, 2006
1,252
0
0
Illiniois
I disagree with the stock rod 5.7 idea. I would go with a set of forged I beam rods, a scat 9000 crank and some forged speed pro pistons... Similar setup to mine but I went with forged H-beams, kinda wish I would have gone with a forged crank and a set of 6" rods. There are a couple sets of 6" H-beams on here cheaper than you could get them anywhere else!! I would def. have the bottom end balanced and have the block checked out, splayed main caps with an arp stud kit is about as strong as you can build a stock 509 400 block. If you do go with splayed caps you will have to have it line honed and prob. decked. Some of the 400's were pretty far off from the factory. Hows the cam tunnel look? Usually if you see much core shift there (off center cam tunnel from the machined area) you know the block is less than perfect... I had around 3000 in parts/machining when I built my 406. Good luck, build it right, keep it cool and you will love it! If you can swing it buy a good set of heads, I am planning on picking up a set of 195 afr's this winter! Just saving cash!!
 

TNTS79

Dragway Regular
Jan 6, 2006
1,252
0
0
Illiniois
xtremeclonedss said:
Guys thanks for the comments!

As far as heads go, I wanted to keep the whole motor old looking and have a set of double hump heads on the motor.

I will keep this in mind when collecting parts.

Be sure to have the steam holes drilled in whatever heads you choose! I will be selling the heads off mine this winter after I get some darts or afrs....
 

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