Cutouts are illegal in Pennsylvania. Since your inspection/MOT is more strict than any I have ever heard of in the US, it would surprise me if cutouts were legal in Canada.axisg said:
Although they are illegal in PA, I have seen some in PA.
Dual Exhaust Question
- Thread starter Doober
- Start date
Although they are illegal in PA, I have seen some in PA.
t5montecarlo said:
off topic I know.... but it cracks me up when Americans compare something done in their particular state to the whole of Canada. The Drive Clean program we mentioned is what we struggle with in Ontario only, BC has another set of regs ( Clean Air IIRC ). From what I have read neither are as harsh as the laws for classics in CA. The drive clean programme for post 88 vehicles is similar to the OBD2 testing done in MA, NY & NJ with a tailpipe sniff test thrown in.
For pre-88 vehicles in Ontario however ( gbodies and other classics ) we only have the initial vehicle inspection to deal with when the car is purchased ( no sniff test just a mechanical check and certification of all the safety equipment is present and working). From there no further inspections are required until the car is sold to another party. So once you get your car checked out, insured and plated, pretty much anything goes ( dual exhaust, cutouts, ect... ). MTO has the guidelines mentioned above to try can curb the greenhouse gases produced and get the old cars off the road while generating huge tax $$ in the process.
That may not be too bad. In PA, each time a car changes hands, it must undergo an inspection...so if you make radical modifications and have slid by, someone else may not.
Also, the inspections are done on a lift and a sniffer, if pre OBD2. All 4 wheels are removed to inspect the brakes and for leaks. There is also a visual for emissions controls compliance. It is quite thorough.
There are some caveats...if you drive less than 5000 miles, you are exempt from emissions, but if you sell the car, the new owner must pass emissions.
After 25 years, antique registration may be used, but you are restricted to use.
In NJ, they have Classic registration, which is anything from 0-24 and you can be exempt from inspection altogether, except annually you need to prove that the odometer works and that you have driven less than 3000 miles in that year. I had that type of registration until I moved to PA and had to revert back to full emissions testing again, until my car reached 25.
Also, the inspections are done on a lift and a sniffer, if pre OBD2. All 4 wheels are removed to inspect the brakes and for leaks. There is also a visual for emissions controls compliance. It is quite thorough.
There are some caveats...if you drive less than 5000 miles, you are exempt from emissions, but if you sell the car, the new owner must pass emissions.
After 25 years, antique registration may be used, but you are restricted to use.
In NJ, they have Classic registration, which is anything from 0-24 and you can be exempt from inspection altogether, except annually you need to prove that the odometer works and that you have driven less than 3000 miles in that year. I had that type of registration until I moved to PA and had to revert back to full emissions testing again, until my car reached 25.
Here in AZ, there are now emission tests every 2 years... used to be annual, and only in the Tucson and Phoenix metro areas, AZ is mostly desert with smaller towns/cities scattered about.
The vehicle must have the emission equipment original to it, if newer than 1967 (last I read, I think they've been working on a 100% exempt after 25 years though), no testing older than 1967. The CA standard of emission equipment for a newer engine doesn't apply, still a sniffer test for anything OBD1 and older, even if it has an OBD2 system (i.e. LS with stock computer, etc.). You can run more than the factory number of converters, but not less (i.e. going to true duals with dual cats from a single cat system).
Getting around emissions: people will register their vehicles outside the metro areas (i.e. family member or p.o. box), which is technically legal, given you don't use it to drive it to work or school. Some people also are snow birds (come here for the cold months), so they simply register their vehicle in a state without emissions.
For vehicles over 25 years, you can get classic insurance and register the vehicle this way, only downside is whatever mileage restriction the insurance company would place on that vehicle.
The vehicle must have the emission equipment original to it, if newer than 1967 (last I read, I think they've been working on a 100% exempt after 25 years though), no testing older than 1967. The CA standard of emission equipment for a newer engine doesn't apply, still a sniffer test for anything OBD1 and older, even if it has an OBD2 system (i.e. LS with stock computer, etc.). You can run more than the factory number of converters, but not less (i.e. going to true duals with dual cats from a single cat system).
Getting around emissions: people will register their vehicles outside the metro areas (i.e. family member or p.o. box), which is technically legal, given you don't use it to drive it to work or school. Some people also are snow birds (come here for the cold months), so they simply register their vehicle in a state without emissions.
For vehicles over 25 years, you can get classic insurance and register the vehicle this way, only downside is whatever mileage restriction the insurance company would place on that vehicle.
Doober, that observation must be up to the individual person doing the inspection, because it is not aligned with Federal law. You are not allowed to have any more or less than the original. Remember that later years of the 3rd gen F body had dual cats? Under Federal law, you could not put that system on your car unless the engine was used with the same emissions equipment. GM used to sell a kit to comply.Doober said:
I was going off what one of the guys at the testing center in Tucson told me. I told him about bringing the Malibu out from MI that has zero emissions equipment on it.
It may depend upon the header. I have Hedman 68311. I did not have to remove the oil filter.
I put in a GM mini starter to ensure the header and starter were not too close.
I remember that the passenger's side went in from the bottom. The driver's side may have gone in from the top.
With my header, I had to reroute the brake line on the passenger's side to keep it away from the header.
I also had to reroute the battery cable and get a longer cable.
maliburacing.com
I put in a GM mini starter to ensure the header and starter were not too close.
I remember that the passenger's side went in from the bottom. The driver's side may have gone in from the top.
With my header, I had to reroute the brake line on the passenger's side to keep it away from the header.
I also had to reroute the battery cable and get a longer cable.
Pathway for Positive Battery Cable
With my new headers, Hedman recommends routing a longer battery cable through the motor mount. I have my battery in the engine bay and have no interest in moving it to the trunk. Has anyone else run the battery cable through the motor mount or some other pathway to the starter? It is clear that...
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I have Hooker Competition (formerly) ceramic coated (now rust coated) headers, and a full size starter. I can remove the starter, although tight... actually had to pull it out when I was still driving the '81, lying on the ground next to the car one time at a campground, it sits slightly lower than the '78 currently does (more interior stuff, etc.):
I also ran my positive cable between the mount/block if I remember right to keep it away from the pass. side header.
I also ran my positive cable between the mount/block if I remember right to keep it away from the pass. side header.
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