Improved geometry centerlink

[5-door]

So I assume you can't use the stock tie rods with this and will have to cut and weld to get it to align? Would you see any benefit with this on a street car? Noticeable difference?

There shouldn't be any welding involved. The tie-rods just get adjusted shorter due to the inner tie-rods being moved outwards. A race car is pretty much all that will benefit from this.

 

[James Bond]

i posted this last night and i don't what happened to it.

anyway here's another one thats adjustable.
http://www.allstarperformance.com/specSheets/pdf/733.pdf

 

[James Bond]

thanks for replies. i was looking for speedway's bumpsteer items and stumbled on the centerlink. my car now, with factory front end parts, sits about 1/2" off the lca bumpstop. at full droop, about 7" down, i see several inches of toe in. my car holds the front end in full droop for while after launching and it looks real nasty.

I would try the centerlink along with the bump steer kit that Speedway offers. Their bumpsteer kit consists of two 5/8" heim joints that replace the outer tie-rods, two threaded adjuster tubes that replace your factory tie-rod adjusters and two adapter bolts that attach to the spindle that the 5/8" heims slide onto. However, I wouldn't use the adapters. When I ran that setup on my wagon, I still couldn't get the outer heims high enough to eliminate my bump steer. I ended up straight drilled my spindle knuckle to accept a long 5/8" bolt for the heim to attach to. Doing this gives you an extra 3/4" of upward adjustment on the outer tie-rod heim. I ended up with the heim all the way up against the spindle knuckle. After all was said and done, I had 3/16" bump steer. 1/8" toe-in at ride height and 5/16" at full extension.

I should also mention that this was accomplished with a stock centerlink and not the centerlink you posted above. So, maybe with the centerlink you posted, you may be able to achieve zero bump steer.

do you have any pics of this setup?

 

[shotgun]

FYI, the AFCO link requires 3/4" to be cut off the end of each tie rod end. A sawzall could do it, just clean your threads.

They are a hot seller, fist run sold right out.

They have 90 on back order with only 50 being produced next week. Should be 2 to 3 weeks if you order now to get on the list.

They are supposed to work great on a street car.

This is all direct from AFCO>

Be carefull of roundy roundy stuff, if the Allstar link is set up to enhance left turns , you would not want that on a street/drag car.

 

[5-door]

do you have any pics of this setup?

 

[James Bond]

thanks for the pic. i'm a little confused. my understanding is that the rod end adapter studs were to allow the connection point to be lowered. in your description you said you had to get it as close to the knuckle as possible.

shotgun, thanks for the afco input.

 

[5-door]

thanks for the pic. i'm a little confused. my understanding is that the rod end adapter studs were to allow the connection point to be lowered. in your description you said you had to get it as close to the knuckle as possible.

shotgun, thanks for the afco input.

Yeah, it's just proof that every car is different. We ended up with only a 1/4" safety washer between my tie-rod end and the knuckle. And that was only to allow the heim to rotate properly without binding up throughout the travel of the suspension.

 

[James Bond]

that has me thinking. in your pic it appears that the adapter stud is long enough to hit the inside of a wheel. i frequently switch between 15x4 and 16x8. i think i'll order one of the centerlinks and measure the bump with the factory outer tie rod ends.

it seems like you only changed the geometry very little and had great results. how much down travel did your car have at time you did the alignment? i'm curious if your bumpsteer was as bad as mine to begin with and if it's due the total down travel.

also thanks for all the replies. you've been a big help.

 

[5-door]

that has me thinking. in your pic it appears that the adapter stud is long enough to hit the inside of a wheel. i frequently switch between 15x4 and 16x8. i think i'll order one of the centerlinks and measure the bump with the factory outer tie rod ends.

it seems like you only changed the geometry very little and had great results. how much down travel did your car have at time you did the alignment? i'm curious if your bumpsteer was as bad as mine to begin with and if it's due the total down travel.

also thanks for all the replies. you've been a big help.

When I ran that setup I had roughly 8 1/2" of suspension travel from ride height to full extension.

As you see it in the picture with that tapered stud that Speedway supplies with their bump steer kit, I had 3/4" of bump steer. I ditched that tapered stud, drilled my knuckle to 5/8" and moved the heim up as far as I could go, as I mentioned in my previous post with the 1/4" safety washer. That reduced my bump steer down to 3/16". If you copy my old setup along with that centerlink, you should be able to achieve zero bump steer.

 

[James Bond]

Just found a side by side pic of the two links.