My Manual brakes Are Horrible...Help

StreetBu

MalibuRacing Junkie
Mar 21, 2004
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If you have a firm pedal feel, then I would say that rules out air in the lines, and pedal travel too most likely. The only other thing I can think of is that the pads and/or shoes havent seated against the rotors and drums. I would take it for a drive and use the brakes normally. Get out and check the temperature at each wheel, more specifically front to back temp. They should all feel warm, just a little too warm to keep your hands on, not scalding or cool. If you find the fronts are really hot and the rears are cool, you now the rear is where your problem lies. Vice Versa too, rears too hot and fronts not hot. If it were mine, I'd cut the rotors and drums just enough to take the glaze out of them and slap new pads on the front, they're cheap and see what it does/how it feels.
 

toxicbu

Frequent Racer
Feb 25, 2009
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dont beleve the glaze is the problem , for me the pedal was way to hard to stop the car i had to push with both feet just to slow it down. glazed rotors will still stop the car the problem here is the car wont stop. this is why i whent back to power asist even tho i have to use a vac canister at least i know it will stop .
next season i plan to buy a after market mastor.
 

GreenDragginBu

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Jul 10, 2003
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toxicbu said:
dont beleve the glaze is the problem , for me the pedal was way to hard to stop the car i had to push with both feet just to slow it down. glazed rotors will still stop the car the problem here is the car wont stop. this is why i whent back to power asist even tho i have to use a vac canister at least i know it will stop .
next season i plan to buy a after market mastor.

These are new rotors and pads in the front did the proper seating in on themalso. And just as Toxicbu described is to a t my same problem, although i use a aftermarket wilwood master that came in the steel concepts/trz kit. For me to stop it fairly quick i got to put my whole body into it, If i try1 footing it...It becomes a bit unsafe.

I know My wife could not stop the car if she drove it. And the other malibu I had with factory manual brakes, she could drive without problem.

But If there is anyone that has did the steel concept/trz master brake swap, within close proximity to Cleveland.Ohio.. I would love the chance to see how their car brakes, and they can drive mine....just so I know I'm not crazy. :)
 

GreenDragginBu

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t5montecarlo said:
As your car is configured right now, how does it differ from the Malibu you had with factory manual brakes?

Stiffer pedal, more force needs applied to stop, No front lock-up.
 

StreetBu

MalibuRacing Junkie
Mar 21, 2004
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Upstate NY
What is the bore size of the master cylinder you are using? A stock G-body manual master cylinder is 7/8".
 

t5montecarlo

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Oct 21, 2007
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I mean from a parts perspective. There was mention of several variations in parts.

Do you have the proper proportioning valve?

There was mention of altering the original design, by removing the proportioning valve and splitting the front brake line.

If you put the properly matched parts in, what happens?

I would use the OEM manual brake hole in the pedal to maximize the force applied to the MC. The power brake hole is too low on the pedal. A hole in between will be not as good either.

I have had manual brake cars and they will stop very well, and with a stiff pedal. Power brake cars always feel like they have a spongy pedal.
 

toxicbu

Frequent Racer
Feb 25, 2009
616
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romeoville il
i went to car quest and picked up a man master and perporsoning valve. installed it all and wham hard pedil tried stoping for the stop sign but did not work i slid right throu at 30 or 40 mph . glad ther was nobody els there #-o . I proced to install a 10 psi wilwood valve , improvement @ 10% . so i went back to the power booster and vac canister. at least i can stop when i need to . plus i was throu spending money on a head ake. mabe the people rebuilding the parts are using wronge parts "lol"
 

t5montecarlo

MalibuRacing Junkie
Oct 21, 2007
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This interesting. You guys are having hard luck with your manual brake conversion, yet in other threads they are very satisfied. Perhaps bad parts is part of the problem?
 

GreenDragginBu

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Yes my front brake line just uses a brass T to split the line. I did away with the factory prop valve, the first time i did the manual swap(oem manual master, rod upper hole).

The reason for large variation in parts.. Was because i was trying to get a decent braking setup, so i replaced everything on the car trying to track it down.

I am currently using the original upper hole on the pedal instead of the one I drilled.
t5montecarlo said:
This interesting. You guys are having hard luck with your manual brake conversion, yet in other threads they are very satisfied. Perhaps bad parts is part of the problem?

That is one of the most frustrating parts, I see so many people do the swap with great results... and mine is sub par.
 

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