My Manual brakes Are Horrible...Help

[Malibuwagon80]

I did the exact same setup as yours, Qp rear drum brakes, factory discs on front, steel concepts brake cylinder etc. Brakes are kinda ok, allright driving around pits{track car} but stopping after a pass 11's @ 118.is kinda so so. I was thinking of the front discs or calipers. Maybe a larger caliper or an aftermarket front setup, strange etc. One quick question did you have the rear brake shoes arced to the drums? I just stuck mine in and had to look at an axle and saw that the shoes weren't making full contact. Take the rear shoes off and see if they're making full contact. I ran a 67 Camaro years back that had all drum brakes and it stopped better than my wagon. Keep us posted of the progress wagondude

dont beleve the glaze is the problem , for me the pedal was way to hard to stop the car i had to push with both feet just to slow it down. glazed rotors will still stop the car the problem here is the car wont stop. this is why i whent back to power asist even tho i have to use a vac canister at least i know it will stop .
next season i plan to buy a after market mastor.

These are new rotors and pads in the front did the proper seating in on themalso. And just as Toxicbu described is to a t my same problem, although i use a aftermarket wilwood master that came in the steel concepts/trz kit. For me to stop it fairly quick i got to put my whole body into it, If i try1 footing it...It becomes a bit unsafe.

I know My wife could not stop the car if she drove it. And the other malibu I had with factory manual brakes, she could drive without problem.

But If there is anyone that has did the steel concept/trz master brake swap, within close proximity to Cleveland.Ohio.. I would love the chance to see how their car brakes, and they can drive mine....just so I know I'm not crazy.

 

[GreenDragginBu]

Wagondude, I didnt arc them, but I will check. I think I am going to move the T fitting up on closer to the master cylinder, cause I have it mounted down where the factory prop valve was at. and the line running down to it makes a loop down there. probally not the problem but never hurts to check it out.

Other than that, I'm at a dead end. It just seems like not enough clamping force on the front. Even when i push it hard as heck and set the line lock, I can hit the gas and drive forward.

 

[StreetBu]

B3359TA 1.125" Bore Aluminum Master Cylinder $80
B3360TA 1.032" Bore Aluminum Master Cylinder $80
B3369 Adjustable Proportioning Valve $48
http://www.trzmotorsports.com/319.html#brakes

If this is the kit you bought, then here is your reason, Wrong size master cylinder. The bore is too big, moves too much volume and not enough pressure. You need a smaller bore size, like the factory g-body master cylinder that has 7/8" and moves less volume but makes more pressure.

 

[GreenDragginBu]

Well after doing some looking and checking of the brakes, and pedal travel in relation to caliper and shoe movement here is what i found...maybe nothing ,but here goes.

As soon as you start to touch the pedal the rear shoes and the front calipersstart moving instantly.

The pedal travel at the foot pad goes about 1 1/2" to 2" and gets "Real" firm, like hard. What i discovered is when the pedal stops there is when the rear shoes are fully engaged on the drums.

So, just a thought.. But I remember my old man always tellin me years ago" back brakes is what gives you a good pedal"... So with that said, is it possible that the back brakes are engaging so soon to make the pedal firm before the fronts are reaching there full clamping potential??????? or am I grasping at straws?? lol

 

[StreetBu]

Not really, if that were the case, then the rears would lock up prematurely. You did say that none of them will lock up at all did'nt you?

 

[GreenDragginBu]

Not really, if that were the case, then the rears would lock up prematurely. You did say that none of them will lock up at all did'nt you?

True no lock up at the back.

 

[prairiehotrodder]

I have the basically same set up as you. Stock brakes all around (new parts) manual 81 malibu master cylinder, cnc cut 1/8 steel block-off plate behind master and using top hole for pushrod. My brake pedal is very stiff and braking could be much better but its liveable. I'm pretty sure the whole problem is hydraulic theory. You need a certain bore size of master to push fluid to a certain bore size calipers. We've got the sizes out of whack. The master is the problem! If I had a text book I'd check to see if we need a bigger or smaller bore master. Whatever applies more pressure. BTW--was there actually ever a malibu built with manual brakes??????? I've never seen one.
Brian

 

[80montecarlo]

they had to have as you can buy the master as an OEM replacement

 

[GreenDragginBu]

BTW--was there actually ever a malibu built with manual brakes??????? I've never seen one.
Brian

Yes there was, I actually owned one and got pictures...lol It was a 14,000 original mile car untouched. and get this the pedal actually is different. I always thought it was strange, then i ran into a guy on another forum that found one in a junk yard and his pedal was the same.

 

[StreetBu]

I'm pretty sure the whole problem is hydraulic theory. You need a certain bore size of master to push fluid to a certain bore size calipers. We've got the sizes out of whack. The master is the problem! If I had a text book I'd check to see if we need a bigger or smaller bore master. Whatever applies more pressure.
Brian

Larger bore pushes more volume, at less pressure. Smaller bore makes more pressure, at lower volume. You need a smaller bore master cylinder to create enough pressure to lock'em up.