this is awesome the more and more videos i see with cars and n20 the more and more i want to use it but i dont know what i can get away with...
my set up is:
355, 4 bolt main, stock pm rods w/arp bolts, all machining was proffesionaly done,balanced, align honed, bored .030 over, deck was trued, im using speed pro forged pistons 4v relief, according to summit pistons are 9.72:1 with 64 cc heads, i milled my heads down to 58cc to increase compression should be in the area of about 10.5:1, heads are 1.94/1.50 vortecs with all work done to accept larger lift, the cam is a competition extreme energy 268 110 lsa .477"/.480" 224*/230* @ .050 installed straight up, 1600-5800 power band, i gaped the rings myself setting up for NA use at about .16 end gap for both top rings (.04 for every 1" of bore) or is it .016? sorry if i missed a 0 but its set up for NA. the carb is 670 holley street avenger with vac. secondarys and edelbrock rpm air gap vortec, headers are dynomax ceramic coated and flows into a 2 1/2 mandrel bent system with flowmasters the block is from a newer escalade so no provision for a mech. pump im using a aeromotive s/s fuel pump flows 125 GPH at 8 psi on 12 volts, with -8 line from tank to areomotive return style regulator (universal bypass w/ boost refrence port 1:1) to carb and -8 back to the tank (return style fuel system) with pre and post fuel pump filters i know i need to sump the tank before i look into nitrous (and should reguardless) as of now i just have a 90* fitting at the lowest portion of the tank. im running a msd pro billet distributor, 6al box with 6000 rev limiter, factory ac delco plugs for a 96 chevy pickup truck with vortec heads, and ttl timing set at 36* with msd wires, 700-r4 trans with a tci 2800 stall converter without anti ballooning plate, 8.5 10 bolt moser axles, eaton posi richmond 4.10 gears
1. can i use this current fuel system to feed both carb and n20 system??? (only of course once its sumped) do i have to split the fuel line to feed the n20 fuel regulator prior to my carb's fuel regulator or can i run a line from the regulator for the carb to the regulator for the nitrous systems fuel?
2. whats the biggest recommended shot that this combo can hold up to safely? im afraid of destroying anything and would prefer to be somewhat conservitive i was thinking about a plate system? any recommendations on a kit?
3. do i have to change my spark plugs? if so to what?
4. even tho my rings are gapped for NA and my converter has no ballooning plate can i still use nitrous?
*edit*
did a lil research on the aermotive site found an answer to question #1
I’m using a bypass style regulator for my carbureted fuel system. I want to install a nitrous kit. How do I set up a second regulator, either static or bypass, to control nitrous fuel pressure?
To avoid engine damage, be VERY careful with this one! As explained in FAQ:1 above, the bypass regulator creates pressure between itself and the fuel pump, so if set for 7 PSI, that is the total system pressure available. Adding a second bypass regulator and attempting to set it for a lower pressure than the primary regulator, would default the entire fuel system to the lower pressure, creating a potential lean-out condition. Connecting a static regulator to a typical bypass system, with no more than 7-8 psi available, creates insufficient inlet pressure to the static regulator (12-15 psi is normally recommended). The result is reduced fuel flow through the static regulator and/or poor pressure regulation to the nitrous fuel solenoid, another potential lean-out condition. Short of installing a separate fuel system for the nitrous (highly recommended), the only option is to raise the bypass regulator set-point to 15-25 PSI, creating enough line pressure to feed two static regulators, each set for the proper carb and nitrous fuel pressures desired.
my set up is:
355, 4 bolt main, stock pm rods w/arp bolts, all machining was proffesionaly done,balanced, align honed, bored .030 over, deck was trued, im using speed pro forged pistons 4v relief, according to summit pistons are 9.72:1 with 64 cc heads, i milled my heads down to 58cc to increase compression should be in the area of about 10.5:1, heads are 1.94/1.50 vortecs with all work done to accept larger lift, the cam is a competition extreme energy 268 110 lsa .477"/.480" 224*/230* @ .050 installed straight up, 1600-5800 power band, i gaped the rings myself setting up for NA use at about .16 end gap for both top rings (.04 for every 1" of bore) or is it .016? sorry if i missed a 0 but its set up for NA. the carb is 670 holley street avenger with vac. secondarys and edelbrock rpm air gap vortec, headers are dynomax ceramic coated and flows into a 2 1/2 mandrel bent system with flowmasters the block is from a newer escalade so no provision for a mech. pump im using a aeromotive s/s fuel pump flows 125 GPH at 8 psi on 12 volts, with -8 line from tank to areomotive return style regulator (universal bypass w/ boost refrence port 1:1) to carb and -8 back to the tank (return style fuel system) with pre and post fuel pump filters i know i need to sump the tank before i look into nitrous (and should reguardless) as of now i just have a 90* fitting at the lowest portion of the tank. im running a msd pro billet distributor, 6al box with 6000 rev limiter, factory ac delco plugs for a 96 chevy pickup truck with vortec heads, and ttl timing set at 36* with msd wires, 700-r4 trans with a tci 2800 stall converter without anti ballooning plate, 8.5 10 bolt moser axles, eaton posi richmond 4.10 gears
1. can i use this current fuel system to feed both carb and n20 system??? (only of course once its sumped) do i have to split the fuel line to feed the n20 fuel regulator prior to my carb's fuel regulator or can i run a line from the regulator for the carb to the regulator for the nitrous systems fuel?
2. whats the biggest recommended shot that this combo can hold up to safely? im afraid of destroying anything and would prefer to be somewhat conservitive i was thinking about a plate system? any recommendations on a kit?
3. do i have to change my spark plugs? if so to what?
4. even tho my rings are gapped for NA and my converter has no ballooning plate can i still use nitrous?
*edit*
did a lil research on the aermotive site found an answer to question #1
I’m using a bypass style regulator for my carbureted fuel system. I want to install a nitrous kit. How do I set up a second regulator, either static or bypass, to control nitrous fuel pressure?
To avoid engine damage, be VERY careful with this one! As explained in FAQ:1 above, the bypass regulator creates pressure between itself and the fuel pump, so if set for 7 PSI, that is the total system pressure available. Adding a second bypass regulator and attempting to set it for a lower pressure than the primary regulator, would default the entire fuel system to the lower pressure, creating a potential lean-out condition. Connecting a static regulator to a typical bypass system, with no more than 7-8 psi available, creates insufficient inlet pressure to the static regulator (12-15 psi is normally recommended). The result is reduced fuel flow through the static regulator and/or poor pressure regulation to the nitrous fuel solenoid, another potential lean-out condition. Short of installing a separate fuel system for the nitrous (highly recommended), the only option is to raise the bypass regulator set-point to 15-25 PSI, creating enough line pressure to feed two static regulators, each set for the proper carb and nitrous fuel pressures desired.
