Weight loss checklist

beastoakland

Daily Driver
Apr 8, 2008
17
0
0
shotgun said:
I was inforned that my spreadsheet link died??? :?


Here is a new one.

http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=pw4RXuqpgZP2zw_QcQHvESA

Remember to click on "sheet 1"


Thanks for looking.

impressive....i will tattoo that on my arm...oh wait i can just print that out..thanks
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Here's what you do, before you stage have a friend stick a hose from a huge helium bottle into the car, hold your breathe and fill the car with helium and hurry up and slam the door quick to keep it in, hold your breath and go, then after the finish line start breathing again and talk like daffy duck, you can also put small airplane wings on it to make the car lighter the faster you go!!! :)
 
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Anonymous

Guest
Also you could remove the transmission and go ''direct drive'' that should be good for a few hundred pounds!! \:D/
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Just kidding, nobody has mentioned cutting out the entire firewall and replacing it with aluminum, I've seen a few guys do this, along with removing the aluminum trim piece under the windshield, also run as small of a fuel cell as possible, no battery, only run one racing seat, no interior rear view if you burnout and not go through the start so you don't have to backup, completely gut the doors and skin the inside with aluminum, one piece fiberglass front end, possibly a 14'' rim and tire in front instead of a 15''? Gut the taillight housings so its just a lense, and ummmmmm....maybe do a #2 before you race?
 
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Anonymous

Guest
Also on the weight comparison between a 9'' and 10/12 bolt, seems to me that people are not remembering that the whole center of these housings are cast iron, I would like to take a 12 bolt and a nine inch both with the same spline axles and housing width both with no brakes and weigh them, somebody mentioned above that the 9'' weighed 12 pounds more but the ford had 33 spline axles and is probably wider due to it being from a truck
 
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Anonymous

Guest
And also if it is 5 pounds lighter I don't think its worth it to swith from a nine to a 12, well I know its not, I've never seen a 12 bolt behind a 1000 horse, I could be wrong, sorry, back the topic now.
 
638montecarlo,

I stay away from the firewall deal for a few reasons.

First, alot of classes want "stock firewalls" to control costs and engine set backs.

Also, according to the book (NHRA), if you modify the firewall you have to add lower windshield/dash bar.

Again for a all out effort, that's fine but no dash bar is good to 8.50.

I am guessing most the weight saved would go right back in with the bar, so it's a push.

Just my 2 cents.
 

novadragr

Daily Driver
Aug 17, 2009
35
0
0
Elmore, Alabama
So, if a person fully guts a g body (I have an 81 malibu) and I'm talking dash and all, suppose 2600 to 2700 is out of the realm when you are done? I'm hoping to be right around 31 to 32 with me in it for a drag car after caging and all.
 

Gitdowns

Daily Driver
Jan 28, 2007
45
0
0
Wichita Falls, TX. 76308
10secBu said:
5-door said:
You might find this hard to believe, but a Ford 9" is lighter than a 12-bolt. It's even lighter than a 10-bolt.

I'm not sure if I would buy that or not. If that were true, then why would some NHRA Super Stockers and Comp eliminator cars run a 12 bolt (I've seen dragsters with GM 12 bolts...I've even seen Mopar S/S cars with GM 12 bolts. I guess it could also be less parasitic loss due to the pinion to ring gear position. But a stock 9" with an iron center section, I'm pretty darn sure the 9" is heavier than a 12 bolt.

Not having weighed either side-by-side myself, I surely could be mistaken though.
They use 12 bolts because they use less hp. The loss in friction out weight the loss you would have because of the weight.
 

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