I figured i was onto something when I saw that... I just looked at their site and I can't find the g-body package listed on the home page like it was when I bought my stuff two years ago, but i would imagine that one phone call and they can get all the right parts and numbers for you, they were really cool and helpful about geting the right parts for me when i called them. I would imagine I could get the 60' down a little quicker if I went through and lost the front bar and changed springs and changed out my air shocks, but Its quick enough for me at the moment. best of luck and hope that helps!
What are you using for rear suspension?
- Thread starter Bad Medicine Racing
- Start date
Here ya go: http://dickmillerracing.com/store/page10.html
There stuff it pretty high though. The BaseLine kit is only $320.
There stuff it pretty high though. The BaseLine kit is only $320.
I think i spent about $400 for the parts I bought, so they're definatley not the cheapest, but you're probably not going to break anything they sell you, its all really well built and very tough stuff.
My wagon has stock boxed control arms, stock springs, and cheap C/E shocks with a 9". 10.5 tire and it ran the same ET for the last 2 months of the season..and when I say the same ET....to the 330' it did not vary .010 for 2 MONTHS! 1.49 best in a 3400 lb. small block wagon. Glide, T-brake and 4.10 gear with a tight convertor. So, I've got about $50 in my rear suspension.
Sounds like you have it working good, the 9" is probably the key to yours, it moves the IC back automatically.Hitman said:
With the 8.5" rear end, lower the car until you get the frame hole on the lower control arm at the same height, or just a little lower than the rear control arm bolt. This will change the angle of the uppers and bring the intersection point towards the rear of the car. Install good control arms, an ARB and some decent shocks and you can easily dip into the 1.30s in 60ft without any relocation brackets.
That is what I thought, but a friend of mine that is real good on race car suspensions, said it would not change the intersect point. I thought it would because from the factory the top bars are flat and the bottoms point up, and with the top bars being shorter, when the bottom bars get flat then the tops point down at a greater angle than the bottoms would point up.CutlassRacer said:
I just ordered a set of IceMan uppers and lowers for my car. Maybe we can get this thing hooking this year and shoot for some 5.90s...
I have never been to Brainerd, but I planned to go to the last two DFT races. 08 I didn't have a truck to pull with and 09, well I just deemed it too cold lol. I live really close to Sand Mountain Dragway, so I am almost always there on the Thursday night T&T. My car is not always there, but I usually am. I am also planning to practice up with some hard tires this year just for the fun of it. It went 7.80 on them last time it tried it, but I think there is more in it. I doubt I can go as fast as Windmill and LT1racing though.
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