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I've ran regular bellhousing or lakewood scattershield on my car for 18 years. I also use a normal GM car clutch fork. I've had big blocks and small blocks. One tube has been changed on the Hooker 2241's and I had to dent the floor under the gas pedal for the clutch fork. To Me that's easier...

When I ran a 68-72 Chevelle 12 bolt in My Malibu with 8" wheels I ran 5.5" back spacing. They still would rub the 1/4 panel lip sometimes with a 255/60R15 or a 28x9 slick. I don't think a 4.5" backspace will work it will be in rubing Your 1/4 panel.

With the lower.

A Double Star M4 non chrome lined with a flat top or A2 carry handle are $650 shipped in a soft case.

Looks like a MG34.

When I broke all the rearends in the 90's I never had any transmission problems. Napa's clutches were another story I got to where I could change one in 30 minutes. I'd say give it a try the rears will break before the transmission. I probably have some 2.41 gears I can sell You.

I tried a 7.5 with a mild 406 and a Muncie in 94. I think I went through ten rearends that summer. They were all stock rearends. I think I broke one or two axles and a couple of posi units. The ring and pinion are the weak link hard shifts would break them. A 2.41 gear is going to be harder on...

I've had the one in My 06 GTO fixed by the dealer (under Waranty) for 3 gear. It lasted about 5000 miles then the same thing started grinding going into 3rd gear. I took it out and fixed it I found out the hard way that there is a snap ring in the reverse syncro assembly. I left it out twice...

I like AR's I sell a ton of them. 50 BMG to the far right. The 1919 is chambered in 30-06.

From left to right Bushmaster ARM, 7.5" M16,10.5" Colt SMG, 11.5" RR SP1,12.5" Beowulf,16" AR15, 20" AR15, DSA FAL, HK91, M1 Super 90, Barrett. Front row left to right SBR'd HK clone, SP89, MP5 and qa 1919. This was a pic I took for black friday sale I had at the shop.

I've had the trans out of My 06 GTO 3 times in the last month. I couldn't get mine to bleed like You would with brakes. I had someone hold the pedal down while I broke the bleeder in the bellhousing loose. I left it open about 5-10 seconds then tightened it back up. Mine normaly bleeds in about...

I would go with a 8.5 or a 12 bolt. A posi fro the 8.20s are hard to find.

I don't know what kind of clutch that You plan on running but I can tell You that I have found that a clutch with a pressure plate that is adjustable is a must. I try to keep mine so it will slip a little when I launch and shift. A clutch that will slip is alot easier on parts and will help the...

I'm not sure about Your harness without looking at it but it just breaks the circuit to the brake lights so normally it will go between the fuse box and tailights.

This is the axle seal I'm talking about http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Inner-Axle-Seal-2605-ID,7363.html

I don't know about a street car but on a dirt car every time I've ran a non floater axle I've had to install something in the axle tube near the center section. Any company that sells to dirt track racers sell the seals I'm talking about.

I checked into a set of 18X heads a few years ago from what I was told at the time they are worth 30 or so HP over the Heads You have. I was also told that to make big power like the 750 Your looking for would take alot welding and alot epoxy to get the ports in them were they need to be.

You will have to change pistons with 18X or 18C. Are trying to reuse any of Your valvetrain stuff?

I think You would be better of with 18C head its a true 18 degree and they will actually make 750HP. What heads are on Your car now 10x 11X or?

I've turned cast cranks over 7000 in round track cars. I've broke cranks cast and steel. I had a scat crank break like that but in the back main a few years ago. What was the comp. ratio?