Charging issues
- Thread starter 406Monte
- Start date
Hey Tommy, then what do you suggest that i do then to find this problem? I need help now this is driving me crazy.
Not running, or with loads turned on. It's a last resort when you have exhausted normal testing.
If a fella doesn't have a VAT 40 or a good multi-meter and load pile, or inductive amp tester, you gotta do what ya gotta do.
I guess I should have made that clear. #-o
On a non-computer controlled vehicle, you start at the battery, if there is an arc, hook a lamp in series to complete the connection, the lamp will glow, then disconnect accessories or circuits until the lamp goes out.....you'll never hurt anything that way.
If a fella doesn't have a VAT 40 or a good multi-meter and load pile, or inductive amp tester, you gotta do what ya gotta do.
I guess I should have made that clear. #-o
On a non-computer controlled vehicle, you start at the battery, if there is an arc, hook a lamp in series to complete the connection, the lamp will glow, then disconnect accessories or circuits until the lamp goes out.....you'll never hurt anything that way.
So what you are saying is that i should hook an lamp up to the battery and start pulling fuses or accesories till it goes out. Then, i will no what is causing the drain. I think that is what you are trying to say. How do i test to see if the diodes are bad or not in the alt?
you should take dvm and run your hot cable through it with the meter set on 10 amps record the amp reading then unhock the alt if the amp draw falls alt is the pronlem if it don't fall it's good unhook stuff till you find the draw do all test with car off. I would install a battery disconnect it could save your car and your shop!!!
Try an other battery for the fun of it ! Had a very similar problem and my stupid ultime battery was the source !406Monte said:
That is something that the bench tester or a VAT type machine should have detected, by seeing non square wave voltage being produced, another way is to load the alternator for full amperage output, if a 120 amp alternator only makes 80 amps, it has one "leg" or one diode bad...it's back to that equipment thing.
Yes, if you put a lamp or current meter in series with your cable, and the lamp goes out, you have found the circuit with the load on it....
Remember that any computers or audio equipment with keep alive memory will cause a draw also, but very slight, so don't let something like that trick your test.
To clarify one thing, NEVER, EVER, EVER do that hilljack charging system test of pulling the battery cable with the engine running to "check" the alternator. That can and will fry numerous accessories and the internals of the alternator/regulator quick like.
Well after it was sitting for one week it went dead already. I am going nuts on this. I am about to pull all my acessories and re wire them all. I don't want to have to disconnect the battery every time i let it sit. curse_sign.gif
You shouldn't have to. My Sonoma sat from May 'til September or so and cranked over just fine last year, has a Die Hard.
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