Possibly converting to a 4 speed! But I have some questions

t5montecarlo

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Oct 21, 2007
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Doober said:
You have a choice of painted, ceramic coated, or stainless (didn't have stainless when I got mine, probably would've gotten those instead).
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+300760+4294908216+4294925046+4294840140+4294799365+4294791244+115+4294908177

How close is the closest tube to the bellcrank?
 

t5montecarlo

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Oct 21, 2007
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Doober said:
You have a choice of painted, ceramic coated, or stainless (didn't have stainless when I got mine, probably would've gotten those instead).
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+300760+4294908216+4294925046+4294840140+4294799365+4294791244+115+4294908177

According to the detail of this part, it will not work:
Standard Transmission Floor Shift = No

How well do they fit with the linkage?

Are you certain this is the same part you have installed?
 

Doober

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Jun 2, 2003
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Must be a different part number... my bad, I didn't look at the application footnotes, it's the only Hooker Comp. PN listed for the G-Body shrug.gif
 

t5montecarlo

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Do you have any receipts? Does Hooker put the PN on the tab on the front tube?

Try and see what you can dig up. I know 1 other person with Hooker headers and mechanical linkage, and the bellcrank is very close to 1 tube...so close I would call it rubbing.

It is promising that you say yours fit well, if only we could confirm the PN. It looks like you have some homework to do for the rest of us!
 

mongoose

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Oct 1, 2006
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2451's are the ones that fit........ they clear the bell pretty well... mine are pretty close to the oil filter though, i can't remember if they were that close before i tweaked them in an accident.. and as per the instruction... you have to bend the stock linkage a bit.... i think it's straight? dunno... mine are tweaked..
 

Doober

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The Hooker badge didn't have a part number that I saw :? These were supposed to be ceramic coated, guess I didn't break 'em in right or somethin', they've been losing the coating over the years... The tube for the z-bar (pivot) seems to be contacting the header, but it hasn't caused any issues. The clutch fork rod has plenty of clearance as well.
DSC01627.jpg

DSC01630.jpg

DSC01631.jpg

DSC01633.jpg


That's about all the info I have that I know of, I'll see if I can find the receipt for the headers. I just copied and pasted the Summit link because I was pretty sure that was the part number for the correct headers. I didn't do any tweaking to my linkage. When I first put the headers in, the previous motor mounts had been (poorly I might add) welded in place, and the engine sat about ¾" forward from where it does right now (may have been rotated ever-so-slightly as well). When it sat there the clutch rod adjuster rubbed on the header tube slightly, but now it has ample clearance.
 

t5montecarlo

MalibuRacing Junkie
Oct 21, 2007
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Thanks for the pictures. There is room to move the close tube. It makes one wonder why the tube is not moved to cover more applications?

Your lower pushrod looks a bit short. I have never seen the swivel that far along the pushrod. Are your mounts still in the wrong place? or has that been corrected?
 

83StreetMachine

Frequent Racer
Thread starter
May 17, 2006
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LS6 Tommy said:
IIRC, the overall length of the Muncie/stock bell housing is the same as a TH350.

Tommy

Thanks Tommy! That really makes me happy! Do you think the length would change were I to use the Lakewood bell 15015??

Doober! Thanks sooo much for the pics, they are worth a 1000 posts each!!

Could you take some more of the engine compartment, so I can see the header on the driver and passenger sides...if I see them mounted on the engine I will be able to tell if they are the same hooker comps that I have!

Could you also take some pics of the underside so it shows the bell housing, the clutch fork, transmission and where the header is amongst all of that! Thanks man!!

To everyone else, thanks a lot for all your help!! Keep the comments coming!!

~Ed
 

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