Here is a pic of the cut I did to the hump. Somewhere in the thread there is a pic of the sheet metal. I did not center the sheetmetal on the shifter and as a result had to add plywood to the sides later to get a boot to fit right.
Tremec TKO 600
- Thread starter Meat Drapes
- Start date
Here is a pic of the cut I did to the hump. Somewhere in the thread there is a pic of the sheet metal. I did not center the sheetmetal on the shifter and as a result had to add plywood to the sides later to get a boot to fit right.
Most excellent thread and writeup and the timing couldn't have been better as I purchased the Kiesler custom fit kit to convert my 87 Aerocoupe from auto to manual with the hydralic clutch setup from a 4th gen Camaro, the Lakewood blowshield for a 3rd gen Camaro with hyd clutch and Jonh Bzdel's clutch pedal. I'm just waiting for my engine to get finished so I can install everything. Also getting ready to remove the body from the fram to clean, box & notch then paint it and install all new suspension and 9" rear.
What clutch are you guys running especially the guys with the procharged motors as I have one too.
What clutch are you guys running especially the guys with the procharged motors as I have one too.
I got myself a Center Force 'Dual Friction'.... wow, I love it. Worth every penny.
Please for the love of GOD.... check the runout on the bellhousing. I didnt and am lucky things are fine. But if I could go back in time and spend an extra day or so I would do it. The dial indicator is $20. Money well spent.
Please for the love of GOD.... check the runout on the bellhousing. I didnt and am lucky things are fine. But if I could go back in time and spend an extra day or so I would do it. The dial indicator is $20. Money well spent.
Yea no doubt, I'm having my engine builder dial in my blowshield once he finishes the engine so I know everything will be spot on. I have a Procharged intercooled 383 which should make 750 - 850 fwhp, so I need a clutch capable of handling this much power. I'm thinking either a Ram VDS or McCleod dual disk.
Meat Drapes said:
Just a "heads up"- many trans guys don't recommend Centerforce clutches with hydraulic clutch setups. I forget what the exact problem is.
Tommy
The driveshaft length came out to around 53. I could have gone a 1/2 inch shorter but its ok.
Its my understanding that the Center Force with the weights gets its clamping strength from the RPMs and as a result of a nice light clutch at idle the hydraulic does not have enough return pressure. Or so Ive heard.
Its my understanding that the Center Force with the weights gets its clamping strength from the RPMs and as a result of a nice light clutch at idle the hydraulic does not have enough return pressure. Or so Ive heard.
Wonder why I am getting such a different driveshaft length? I am gonna triple check it this week. Might be a difference in the rear-ends used. :?
I have the stock rear. Only thing new is a Auburn Pro Series carrier and 4.10 gears. Did get UMI uppers and lowers... non adjutable. Next time they will be adjustable...never do non adjutable. Never never never.
No shims yet and nothing done to the car. Been driving it hard and its fine.
No shims yet and nothing done to the car. Been driving it hard and its fine.
Yesterday I added some shims to the crossmemebr and reduced the pinion angle at the transmission to 4 1/2 degrees( 1 degree reduction). I still have a vibration at 70+ mph. Its a very fast vibe that I can really feel in the shifter that gets much worse the faster I go. I have yet to go past 75. The vibration does not come on untill after 65 mph and is only in 4th or 5th gear at higher speed.
Any comments?
Any comments?
