Tremec TKO 600

malihoochie

Dragway Regular
May 28, 2004
875
0
0
michigan(detroit area)
MD - My trans is standard, not altered in any way since Tremec built it. Because of this I dont think I need the hump you've added. Elcoolmino has a trans like mine and he says he only needed to convince the floorboard with a couple of well placed hammer blows. I wonder if the shifter stick I plan to use has more offset than yours, to place the knob in the same place after all is said and done. I have not kept up with my total cost to date, but I have spent wisely and have also taken advantage of the it's "who you know" option. I would guess I've got less than $2200 invested so far, I still need some odds & ends though. I will also need to get a driveshaft yet. You ask what I have yet to do - haha! mainly get off my a$$. As well as my trans drama I also have my heads off the car. They have been ported and hopefully will be done and assembled sometime soon. But because my heads are off - so is my supercharger, intake, headers, tubing to the intercooler, etc. :( I predict that I'll punk out 'til the end of January and then bust a$$ in February to have the car out in March. Up here in Michigan the winter is not as friendly as it is in NC. :p But the bad thing is that for the last few weeks it has actually been real mild - and I still have not done anything! :oops:
I am curiuos to find out what you did for connecting your speedo & reverse lights & if you have a neutral saftey switch. Also are you using a pedal stop for the clutch? I see that OPGI offers one (it could be made so easily) and am not sure if I really need it or not. :? . Keep your pics comming!
 

Meat Drapes

Dragway Regular
Mar 26, 2005
1,185
4
36
Jacksonville, NC
I have not connected the speedo yet. Not sure if I was going to. I need a new one as mine has stuck odometer and causes the needle to bounce. It drives me insane... sounds like a turn signal is on all the time.
The reverse lights do not connect directly like Keisler said they would.
The neutral safety is factory wired and does not seem to deal with the transmission just the pedal.
My driveshaft is on a FED EX truck right now. I hope to GOD it comes on friday as I dont think they deliver on Sat and its a long weekend.
I could actually drive my car Friday.. I am unsure what to do with myself.
I have spent $3042. That is suppossed to be everything. Other then my own crossmember ( $30) , thats about it.
 

malihoochie

Dragway Regular
May 28, 2004
875
0
0
michigan(detroit area)
The neutral safety switch from your auto should not be a factor, I was thinking that you may not want to be able to start the car without the the clutch pedal pushed in. I was gonna use a leftover one from my B&M Pro Stick shifter. Did your x-member come in? Also I seem to have a clearance issue with my flasher relay getting hit by my clutch pedal "arm", above the foot pad. :?
 

Meat Drapes

Dragway Regular
Mar 26, 2005
1,185
4
36
Jacksonville, NC
My car was a factory 4 speed. The neutral safety is already in place. I didnt know this untill after I got the transmission in and started it up.
No dice on the crossmember. Mine should be good untill it comes. I did get the drive shaft. The length is correct. I messed up the u-joint measurement. Now I am trying to figure that one out.

I did not know that New Bern even had a drag strip. I just go to Coastal Plains. It gets better and better every year. They even have a tri-oval now if your into that sort of thing.
 

Meat Drapes

Dragway Regular
Mar 26, 2005
1,185
4
36
Jacksonville, NC
Elcoolmino,
can you tell me how you got your clutch pedal to be the same hieght/location as your brake pedal? My clutch pedal sticks out WAY TOO FAR. I want a nice clean look and not huge pedal travel. As it stands now my pedal travel is just plain insane. And if I adjust the linkage then the neutral safety is constantly on.

The carpet came today and this weekend I will begin the the interior and complete that. I also had to get a new crossover u-joint. I needed 1330 to 3R. Need to modify the power steering bracket because the headers now interfere. I am close to finishing. I have decided I have waited this long... now is the time to take the CORRECT steps and not blow something up. Nice and easy.
 

malihoochie

Dragway Regular
May 28, 2004
875
0
0
michigan(detroit area)
either of you got any input on that relay interference issue? My relay is kinda rectangluar.
 

El Coolmino

Top Fueler
May 11, 2005
2,505
0
0
DSM IA under a green truck
My flasher relay clears fine. It's the short round kind that the factory uses. Try swapping it for the plain style and see if it clears????



Clutch pedal just ended up there when it was adjusted properly. Does yours have a hydraulic? Mine's mechanical, and the pedal's gotta be to the floor for the start switch to activate, so something sounds fishy about your adjustment, the switch, and the clutch. If it's mechanical clutch, are you 100% sure the fork + throwout bearing are clipped together the right way? Lots of people do it just a tiny bit wrong, which results in the pedal being a bit funny. Just guessing here, not trying to insult your skills.

Good Luck!
 

Meat Drapes

Dragway Regular
Mar 26, 2005
1,185
4
36
Jacksonville, NC
The linkage is mechanical. I adjusted it untill it stopped where it rests now.
I can make it adjust untill its even with the brake pedal. I am not sure how you put the clutch fork on wrong. The clips go inside the bearing. I have seen enough pictures on the internet to hopefully understand that. Maybe I am looking at all of this backwards. I was wrong about the neutral safety. Your replys are far from insulting. I need to learn. All of my other hotrods have been auto-trannys. This is my first manual and I dove in and tried a transmission swap. So I am a little lost.
Especially now that I have a car that can move... I am afraid to move it.
I have finished the interior and got the driveshaft attached. I messed around with it while it was up on jack stands. It seems ok. The tires move. I even have reverse :)
I still have to tweak a few things. What else could I be missing?
 

Meat Drapes

Dragway Regular
Mar 26, 2005
1,185
4
36
Jacksonville, NC
I took it off the jack stands and drove it around the neighborhood today for about 10 minutes. All shifts were smooth and it felt ok. I just need to do little things now... like get he exhaust hooked up. hehe
I could not help myself and did some little clutch dumps. Everything seems nice. We shall see. I am almost done.
 

malihoochie

Dragway Regular
May 28, 2004
875
0
0
michigan(detroit area)
Alright, it's been 7 days ... whats new with the project? Meatdrapes?
I actually bolted my trans up last night to check where I need to place the hole & it looks like I'll only have some minor clearancing to do (like you said Elcoolmino!), and the stick is going to be coming through the floor in the same spot as my prostick was bolted to.
 

Meat Drapes

Dragway Regular
Mar 26, 2005
1,185
4
36
Jacksonville, NC
Today i took it out for a road test up to about 45 mph. I hit all 5 gears.
I shifted a few hard. The clutch feels pretty good. Nice and smooth. I felt nothiing unusual, no vibrations. Its too loud to hear anything though. Open headers are a pain.
My custom crossmember... the pad is too low and I have minimal clearance from the driveshaft to the driveshaft tunnel strap. I think I am ok for now. Its not hitting or rubbing.
Tomorrow morning I will get the exhaust hooked back up and finally get a crossover installed. The car is running like crap. In 5th gear at 45 the engine feels like its going to die and that is about 1500 rpm. I guess the cam does not come in untill about 2200... I am not even sure. Could be the open exhaust too.
All in all I must have done something right. The car moves. It moved and didnt blow up or make any hidious noises. I guess my main problem is that I am lacking confidence since I had never done it before.

Sorry I have not updated. I am horribly busy at work. We are fielding new gear and I have Marines returning from Iraq and its never ending.
 

Meat Drapes

Dragway Regular
Mar 26, 2005
1,185
4
36
Jacksonville, NC
Exhaust is done. I took a more extensive ride today. Progressivly faster and with harder exceleration. I did a few more harder shifts. Something is not right. If I shift really hard something is hitting. Might be transmission hitting tunnel. I also spun the tires much more aggressively and pick up alot of wheel hop that caused a really sickening noise. Could be the driveshaft rubbing the tunnel strap while everything is flying around. I think that my crossmember is too weak and its flexing. The new pad I had welded on is just enough to drive but not tough enough to really beat on it. I dont know for sure if this is the case.
One thing is for sure. After I took out the rear sway bar, the inserts that keep the lower control arms from getting crushed also added a little more rigidity and now without them the rear hops like crazy if I get after it. I have a set of UMI uppers and lowers... that is next.

The shifting is wonderful. The clutch is fantastic. 5th gear is GREAT!!
I would not do a kit ever again. This could have been done from scratch.
A few more weeks of tweaking here and there. Ill get a pic of the interior soon.
 

El Coolmino

Top Fueler
May 11, 2005
2,505
0
0
DSM IA under a green truck
The following is only my opinion, and I am not an expert, so consider the source.

When I first saw how the crossmember tab was done, I immediately thought you were going to have problems. The way it's cantilevered off the front is gonna make your extension flex like hewl.

I say this because I had to put a tab of similar length on the front of my G-force crossmember. When I first put it in the car, you could see the shifter moving over bumps in the road, indicating severe flex in the trans mount. My advice would be to add a couple side pieces to your tab to provide more up-down support. You can see what I'm talking about here



Before I replaced my floor brace with a driveshaft loop, I modifed my OEM brace by cutting, bending, and making a new center out of steel strap. It's ugly, but it was a temporary thing. It's sitting right in front of the gold anodized shifter body



Good Luck!
 

Meat Drapes

Dragway Regular
Mar 26, 2005
1,185
4
36
Jacksonville, NC
I too thought about how I might get flex without a little brace welded up to the sides. When I shift hard I get the "THUMP" or if I get wheel hop.
I drove all day and only had one incident and that was hard acceleration past 5000 rpm and poor pavement.
I have put it up on ramps to peek and cant see any place it might be hitting.
Another note. The centerforce dual friction setup, on a new clutch, is it normal to smell a little burn from it? I was trying to ride up my ramps and rode the clutch a little... it was stinky. My other made in China clutch did not ever smell.
 

Meat Drapes

Dragway Regular
Mar 26, 2005
1,185
4
36
Jacksonville, NC
Drove to work and back. I have been driving alot lately.
I have decided that while the crossmember does in fact flex a little, if it were to flex really hard, it would stay in the position it flexed too.
I think I am having a problem with the rear end. Can anyone tell me how much stability the braces inside the lower control arms provide... the braces that keep the arms from getting crushed when you have a rear sway bar?
I have them and sway removed right now and the rear end makes one hell of a noise when I really 'hit it' .

Bottom line when all is said and done... the Tremec TKO-600 is a very nice transmission. It is night and day compared to my saginaw. I do not recommend any company though. Do it yourself. It is not hard. Soon I will follow up the thread with a few final thoughts.

Also... Keisler Engineering STILL does not have a [email protected]$ING clue as to when my crossmember will be made. What a crock.
 

malihoochie

Dragway Regular
May 28, 2004
875
0
0
michigan(detroit area)
I am going to make use of my stock x-member with the aformentioned side bracing. Plan on working on it this weekend. I am having some doubts about being able to use my old drivshaft safety loop though. I'm thinking I'll have to switch to the kind that offsets the loop to the rear of the car - or I've seen some that mount to the trans mount too. Maybe one of those may have to be used.
 

Meat Drapes

Dragway Regular
Mar 26, 2005
1,185
4
36
Jacksonville, NC
The transmission is functioning great. The clutch is still fantastic.

I put the UMI upper and lowers on and this isolated the problem to the crossmember. It just does not have the strength in the pad that I had welded on. The pad is thick enough but I never had it reinforced. If I really get on it the transmission will cause the pad to flex/vibrate and it drives the transmission tailshaft into the crossmember. I am learning a great deal about all the torsional stresses that the engine / transmission / driveshaft and rearend go through. The only weak link left would be the crossmember.
I will have it reinforced next weak.
What a novel concept 5th gear can be when you are running 4.10s... I love it.
 
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