Tremec TKO 600

Meat Drapes

Dragway Regular
Mar 26, 2005
1,193
9
38
Stoutland, MO
Turna, you have been one of my better supporters. But NO AUTO EVER. You will be banished from this thread if you ever bring it up again!!! :twisted:

I did a little mock up. I now understand the pic that is called DASH COLUMN BRACKET TRIM. The length of the m/c linkage seems to be correct, but it would have been nice to have the adjustable McLeod. Plus the stock F-Body m/c is some sort of composite plastic and it is not all that rigid.
I just want this to be right the first time and NEVER have to mess with it again.
I can jam the clutch to the floor in less then a heartbeat, will the stock m/c take the abuse?
 

TURNA

MalibuRacing Junkie
Jul 6, 2003
6,028
1
38
Socialist NY
the stock M/C took 700r4 the abuse in my S-10 and takes the abuse 700r4 in my father-in-laws Z06 and I haven't really ever heard of a 700r4 stock GM master failing.

I have heard of the late model C-5 vettes masters 700r4 being a little slugish
 

mongoose

Daily Driver
Oct 1, 2006
15
0
0
i was reading that.. in the sentence... and though i was loosing it.... had to read it like 4 times before i read it right..
 

t5montecarlo

MalibuRacing Junkie
Oct 21, 2007
4,745
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48
Lederach, PA
garage-scene.com
Jeff-

I assume you are not using the stock line to the slave?

I ask because there is a restrictor either in the stock F body line or the slave inlet (not sure which), that prevents rapid release or engagement of the clutch. Many people have drilled the restrictor. I just wanted to warn you in case you were not aware.

From where did you order the McLeod master, but received the OEM master? That was naughty.

I have been thinking more about the QuickTime bellhousing. From the pictures, it looks like the weld for the slave mount is annodized. Are you sure that Fortes welded it? or did QuickTime weld it? You said that QuickTime offered to weld it, so I want to believe they welded the one you have too.

Did you receive the spacer yet?
 

Meat Drapes

Dragway Regular
Mar 26, 2005
1,193
9
38
Stoutland, MO
The line to the slave will be -4 AN line. I ordered the master from Mike Forte. And like Quick Time they offered to exchange it but this one is for the difference in price which is hefty. The OEM master will work. I have mocked it up and just from my initial crude lining up of the parts I am sure it will be ok. I just need to get a SAWZALL somehow under the dash to cut a chunk out of a bracket. Thats going to be real fun.
As far as the anodizing, I noticed that too. But when I talked with Quick Time they said they did not do it. I called Forte and let them know it was a problem in the fitment and said I was getting the spacer ( not yet recieved as of Wed ), they also mentioned it was a mod they did.
I talked to Forte about the master, they are sending me a resevoir and some hose. No charge.

Forte also sells TKO trannys. I asked them about the spacer potentially pulling the input shaft out and leaving it with only 1/4-3/8ths inserted into the pilot bearing. They had nothing nice to say about that which is what I would expect to hear. I suppose I could pull the pilot out 3/16ths? I wonder what the absolute minimum is that the input shaft should be inserted in the pilot?
 

tubage

Frequent Racer
Dec 29, 2006
370
0
0
missouri
strengthtruth.com
Forte also sells TKO trannys. I asked them about the spacer potentially pulling the input shaft out and leaving it with only 1/4-3/8ths inserted into the pilot bearing. They had nothing nice to say about that which is what I would expect to hear. I suppose I could pull the pilot out 3/16ths? I wonder what the absolute minimum is that the input shaft should be inserted in the pilot?[/quote]


I am no one of authority on this manner but this an issue that needs full addressing. That is some major potential danger. I suppose for you and passengers would be very little at this point with the scatter shield, but if that bushing is not right and gives way? I know you are already looking at this seriously but I just had to say it again. YIKES! Chris
 

t5montecarlo

MalibuRacing Junkie
Oct 21, 2007
4,745
36
48
Lederach, PA
garage-scene.com
I know you are really tired of dealing with this issue and the vendors, Jeff, but if the 168T bellhousing works, it eliminates the unknowns and risks associated with the spacer.
 

Meat Drapes

Dragway Regular
Mar 26, 2005
1,193
9
38
Stoutland, MO
t5montecarlo said:
I know you are really tired of dealing with this issue and the vendors, Jeff, but if the 168T bellhousing works, it eliminates the unknowns and risks associated with the spacer.

This is the course if the input shaft does not meet expectations. And those expectations are minimum insertion of 3/8ths per my TKO vendor - Keisler. When I asked the question, there was no hesitation on the answer. The guy I deal with new it right away. I also have the ability to pull the pilot out 1/8th without compromising the integrity.

So with all of this said, and the measurement I took based on the wear pattern on the input shaft as it sits , I have somewhere between 3/16ths and 3/8ths already of clearance. Add the 1/8th for the pilot being pulled out a littlebit and I should be square.

I will verify all of this hopefully tonight.
 

Meat Drapes

Dragway Regular
Mar 26, 2005
1,193
9
38
Stoutland, MO
I received the spacer. I installed the spacer. I installed the bellhousing.

Its not going to work.

I have enough clearance for the clutch. The problem is going to be the dowels. The spacer does not allow the dowels to align the bell and it slides all over the spacer. Quick Time advertises that the bell is machined to tolerances that eliminate the need to check the runout. Well thats just great. But with the bell just hanging onto the bolts I had at least .050 runout and I could slide the bell to make it in any direction. The max runout for the TKO-600 is .005. So I will call Quick Time and explain why I am uncomfortable with the situation and then see how this plays out. PLus the whole input shaft ordeal, none of this would leave my car in a truely desirable position.

T5Montecarlo is correct. The 168T bell is the best solution and offers the opportunity to someday put in a 11" clutch.

For those that do not know whay I have been stubborn with the 10.5" clutch, I spent wel over $900 for my McLeod Street Twin. Earlier in the thread I burned up my first CF DF, then bought another. It made 15 passes and melted. I looked into going for the 11" clutch but the bellhousing issue was a pain. I looked but not really that hard. I had a decent functioning stock 606 bell and I was already setup so I just got the 10.5" clutch.
 

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