so basically the problem with the f-body m/c is that the bore is just too small for the amount of pedal travel at the clutch arm intersection?
Tremec TKO 600
- Thread starter Meat Drapes
- Start date
rjleiker said:
The opposite. The bore is too big. I have not been able to find the specs but by my measurements its around .780 in diameter. I had to reduce the pedal travel so I would not overdrive the hyd t/o bearing and blow out the seals. At the clutch arm intersection I now have a blazing 1.1" of travel.
OK, its not cold in Georgia I was just a little lazy. I went ahead and installed it this morning. Then I got the pedal travel correct. Now it just needs bolts.... xmember, bellhousing, driveshaft, exhaust.... I swear it will drive before thanksgiving. 8)
I put everything back together today. Then I attempted to bleed the system. Since the master was already done I figured it would be easy. No.
Air just keeps coming and coming. So I enlisted my oldest daughter to work the clutch while I opened and closed the bleeder valve. Still air but I have throwout bearing movement.
Clutch is still a little stiff and the travel limiter I put in place to keep the pedal from bottoming out sucks. The clutch action is very smooth though. It is the same pedal feel from top to bottom. I can actually push it down by hand. I had to come up with a very ugly set of fasteners to get the f-body line to mate up with Keislers line.
So I started it on the jack stands and ran through the gears and checked engagement in 1st gear and watched the tires. It lets out nicely, not at the last second. I tried reverse and it felt like I would not go, I guess I was used to the gears grinding a little, there was no grinding as I was in reverse.
So my new question is where did all of the motor oil come from? :-k Does the ball stud hole need to be plugged?
Air just keeps coming and coming. So I enlisted my oldest daughter to work the clutch while I opened and closed the bleeder valve. Still air but I have throwout bearing movement.
Clutch is still a little stiff and the travel limiter I put in place to keep the pedal from bottoming out sucks. The clutch action is very smooth though. It is the same pedal feel from top to bottom. I can actually push it down by hand. I had to come up with a very ugly set of fasteners to get the f-body line to mate up with Keislers line.
So I started it on the jack stands and ran through the gears and checked engagement in 1st gear and watched the tires. It lets out nicely, not at the last second. I tried reverse and it felt like I would not go, I guess I was used to the gears grinding a little, there was no grinding as I was in reverse.
So my new question is where did all of the motor oil come from? :-k Does the ball stud hole need to be plugged?
Glad to hear its coming together for ya! Might have to do the hyd. T/O myself some day.
So how was it installing the trans with the bell attached? Kind of a 6 in one, half a dozen in the other deal?
So how was it installing the trans with the bell attached? Kind of a 6 in one, half a dozen in the other deal?
When I had my motor apart on the truck I noticed the boss for the ball stud was on the external part of the block (was already drilled/tapped)... but then again it's an SBC, BBC may be different.
388bu said:
The trans w/bell was a tight squeeze. But actually easier to get in. It took a little manipulation to get it right with tiny increments and then adjustments to clear the bottom of the body . The input shaft needs to be right up to the clutch and then the transmission needed to be 'rolled' over a few degrees as it was lifted into place. All in all, better then with trans alone. I thought it would be more difficult.
Just need to find the oil leak and make a few adjustments, and nearly done.
Oil leak was the filter. New filter= no leak.
Finished everything. The clutch is smooth and once everything is ironed out it will be very nice to drive. There is very little pedal movement and the engagement is right in the middle. I am going to have to come up with some bracing as 388Bu did, the clutch/brake bracket is too flexible and my pathetic clutch stop is hit or miss.
The Keisler bearing is not bad at all. The pedal effort is stiff yet manageable and it is smooth throughout its movement. The bearing is easy to install, the bleeder is easy to get too. Shifting is a breeze. The TK0 600 always hated colder weather but I seem to have enough engagement to make it feel better then it did before. Reverse is a suprise. I do not have to hit a forward gear to go into reverse anymore. I am sure all of my forward gears will be better off too with the larger airgap.
This is the way it should have been to begin with. The Hyd t/o bearing is the way to go. Now I can install a nice full length header!!
Finished everything. The clutch is smooth and once everything is ironed out it will be very nice to drive. There is very little pedal movement and the engagement is right in the middle. I am going to have to come up with some bracing as 388Bu did, the clutch/brake bracket is too flexible and my pathetic clutch stop is hit or miss.
The Keisler bearing is not bad at all. The pedal effort is stiff yet manageable and it is smooth throughout its movement. The bearing is easy to install, the bleeder is easy to get too. Shifting is a breeze. The TK0 600 always hated colder weather but I seem to have enough engagement to make it feel better then it did before. Reverse is a suprise. I do not have to hit a forward gear to go into reverse anymore. I am sure all of my forward gears will be better off too with the larger airgap.
This is the way it should have been to begin with. The Hyd t/o bearing is the way to go. Now I can install a nice full length header!!
That's great you got it all figured out 
I'm actually going from full length to shorties because mine are hanging below the frame slightly... I don't like that. Plus it's a pain getting the starter out.
I'm actually going from full length to shorties because mine are hanging below the frame slightly... I don't like that. Plus it's a pain getting the starter out.
