Tremec TKO 600

[Meat Drapes]

Went for an extensive drive today. In traffic, for an hour. Car is now everything I want it to be. It feels great, it runs great. The clutch is great. The pedal feel is great. Engagement is great. I was not disapointed in the least. The hyd t/o bearing is excellent. Good job Keisler.
I tried to find a place where I could 'lite em up' and get video of it... no dice yet.

 

[StreetBu]

WOOHOOO!!!! =D> dancin_banana.gif \/ cool.gif :nana_wrench: :thumbsup: wave.gif

 

[Anonymous]

Here's a thought... just thinking abstractly....

what would stop a person from using this Willwood remote master cylinder that comes in assorted bore sizes instead of an F-body master cylinder and then plumbing to a Keisler throwout bearing?

http://www.jegs.com/p/Wilwood/744520/10002/-1

Since everyone is worried about pedal travel and bore sizes, if the cylinder was mounted straight in, instead of angled upward (like the F-body cylinder), this would increase pedal travel and you can pick your bore size.

Just a thought... let me know what you all think about this... I'm trying to convince myself that a T56, or a hydraulic setup for future engine swaps is a better idea.

First off, let me say Hi. My name is Richard and I am in the tech department at Keisler. I have been working with Jeff (meatdrapes) to get his TKO and hydraulic kit, up and running.

To answer the questions above, mounting a master cylinder straight in to the firewall causes an issue if you cannot get the pedal connection point in the exact location that it is supposed to be in. In other words, the pedal connection point must be in the factory correct location or the geometry will be off resulting in a hard pedal.

The other half to the equation is our bearing is designed to use a 3/4" bore with a 1.4" (1 7/16") pushrod stroke. Using a master cylinder of different specs will result in 1 of 2 things happening. 1. you push too much fluid and end up blowing the bearing apart or 2. you don't push enough fluid to actuate the bearing and fully release the disc.
As Meatdrapes had to do, a pedal stop can be used to compensate for a larger bore or a longer stroke.

AS with any hydraulic setup, ideally you want the pushrod stroke to bottom out at the same time that the pedal hits the floor. This ensures that you don't over extend it or bend the pushrod.

The theory behind our angle mounted master cylinders is that it duplicates the factory mechanical pushrod angle. Our master cylinders were designed to be bolted up to the firewall in the exact same location as the mechanical pushrod coming thru the firewall. Unfortunately, on your G-body cars, the angle was so severe, that the only way we could get it to work without bending the pushrod was to use a brace that mounted against the pushrod to "stiffen" it up. While it did work, it was barbaric looking to say the least.


Meatdrapes......once again, glad you finally got it worked out and are happy with the end result. Let me know if I can be of further assistance.


Richard
Tech Support
Keisler Engineering

 

[t5montecarlo]

I can hear the grin from here !!!

I am glad you finally got it all sorted out.

 

[Killerdave8813]

Hey Meat Drapes,
I want to congradulate you on your perserverance and determination throughout your 5spd project!!!! I stumbeled on to it one day and couldn't get enough!! From what it sounds like you went from a novice to a mechanic that can handle about anything! I just wanted to say Hey and wondered if you ever did that last blast down the strip?
I don't think it will actually be your last as that sort of thing kind of grows on you,I'm 49 got bad hips,been a mech/welder/fabricator since I was a kid and I don't think I'll ever be able to quit till they shovel dirt in my face!!!!!!!!! Then maybe I'll come back and haunt a Mustang or something!!!!!! Later,Killer Dave

 

[Meat Drapes]

I sure have learned a lot since this project started. Car is ready for the track again but there does not seem to be anything for me in December. I will get the blast down the strip and probably more after that maybe in Jan. I also got the 150 shot setup while doing all of this as well. I just need one 10 sec pass rowing gears and Ill call the project a success. Its already a success but more speed is always a good thing and I cant seem to get enough.
Still need to get the clutch pedal setup with a better positive stop. Tooling around town its easy to 'feel' when the clutch needs to stop, but when I hit the track I want to be able to slam the pedal down and back fast.
I suppose I should take the brake/clutch pedal assembly back out and brace it. I dont like how it feels with the hyd clutch. Flimsy.

 

[Killerdave8813]

Hey Meat,
Yea If there's anything you have doubt about on the clutch system you deffinatly need to look at it as you don't need to be thinking about anything but keeping it straight when you're on the strip especially when you light off the nitrous!!!! 150 extra should be very interesting!!
Later,Dave

 

[HarrisonTX]

Drapes,
2 easy questions
Going from a saginaw, to a tko, did you shorten the driveshaft any?
and, how does the tko shift.
I have heard the shifts described as "notchy" i guess meaning you can really feel the gears.
I am probably about to purchase a tko500 for my datsun 260z, 302 chevy project.
I ask about the driveshaft lenght, because i may throw it in my malibu, to test her out before the Z's maiden voyage as a v8.
Thanks man.

 

[Meat Drapes]

I dont remember if it was shortened. It was part of the 'package' when I ordered from Keisler. Once everything was installed I then had to call in the length and Keisler made me one. I can say that after I pulled the 7.5 out and replaced it with the 9" the driveshaft is a little short now.

As far as notchy? It was when it was brand new and then again after I had it rebuilt. But it did not take long for it to smooth out. Although, to this day it still will bump the gears when shifting from 2nd to 3rd when the transmission is cold. But it is barely noticable. Once it warms up, it goes away.

Any other questions, feel free.

 

[rjleiker]

it looks as though all your pictures have gone somewhere else to hang out... could you put up some pictures of the interior with the shifter installed? I have a bench seat and I believe you do as well and I wanted to look into where you had your shifter located on the transmission and the tunnel. What location did you end up using for the shifter?
I am 5'5" tall and my seat is up most of the way forward, so I wanted to know about where your shifter ended up and if I would need it any farther forward to clear the seat. Can you still move your seat all the way forward? Or about how much does the shifter limit if it does?