Tremec TKO 600

[StreetBu]

In the immortal words of Metallica "Kill'em All" I'm headed tomorrow morning with 4 tags to fill, and plan on filling them all, hopefully in one day! hehehehehe

 

[rjleiker]

Here's a thought... just thinking abstractly....

what would stop a person from using this Willwood remote master cylinder that comes in assorted bore sizes instead of an F-body master cylinder and then plumbing to a Keisler throwout bearing?

http://www.jegs.com/p/Wilwood/744520/10002/-1

Since everyone is worried about pedal travel and bore sizes, if the cylinder was mounted straight in, instead of angled upward (like the F-body cylinder), this would increase pedal travel and you can pick your bore size.

Just a thought... let me know what you all think about this... I'm trying to convince myself that a T56, or a hydraulic setup for future engine swaps is a better idea.

 

[388bu]

I was very tempted at one time to switch over to this setup and very well may still if I get a big enough bug up my arse about it.

Ratmalibu is running a similar setup and from the pics I saw, hydroboost might be a requirement in order for the M/C to clear your brake booster unless you get real creative with your fabrication.

 

[RatMalibu]

 

[Meat Drapes]

I would like to see the linkage and how it actuates the m/c. How is pedal effort? What headers are you running?

 

[rjleiker]

I would like to see the linkage and how it actuates the m/c. How is pedal effort? What headers are you running?

If that was directed at my thoughts... I assume a simple female spherical rod end with a bolt/stud through a hole in the clutch pedal arm would do the trick. Not sure on pedal effort, but as bore sizes can differ and a few options in stroke, I assume one could pick out something that would work rather well and keep the fabrication to a minimum, which is the goal of my entire project. This master cylinder seems relatively compact to begin with and plumbing to the brake resovoir is a great idea I need to remember.
From other installation pics I've seen, it seems that the master cylinder is mounted farther underneath the brake booster, out of the way, and not to the side, like in this hydroboost picture. I tend to stray away from hydroboost because I feel like it would rob power from the engine.
I am running full length standard Headman Full Length SBC G-Body headers. Plus, with the Z-bar supported on one end by the stud on the engine, it would take one hard rev/launch and the motor mount goes out and you can't shift to get home. Hence the leaning toward the hydrauluic setup. I just am hesitant because love the old school feel and ergonomics of mechanical connections and feeling one with the vehicle and all.

 

[388bu]

You pretty much have to mount a Tilton style M/C where Ratmalibu did. If you try to mount it under the booster, then it wants to sit in the firewall at an angle just like the f-body M/C.

I dont think going with a tilton M/C would be easy for someone not wanting/planning on running hydroboost brakes.

I saw pics of how Matt attached the Tilton to his brake pedal. He basically welded a piece of square 3/4" - 1" 'ish tubing to the brake pedal at the pivot point to get the spacing required to line up with the pushrod. It was a relatively simple install from what I saw. He just had to make a new mounting plate for the booster and M/C - something you have to do anyway when you go to hydroboost usually.

 

[RatMalibu]

pedal feel.....it's a little stiff, I plan to pull it back out someday and move the mounting point up 1/2" to make the ratio better but it's drivable the way it is....rush hour traffic wouldn't be much fun though lol

From other installation pics I've seen, it seems that the master cylinder is mounted farther underneath the brake booster, out of the way, and not to the side, like in this hydroboost picture.

I attempted to wrap my head around making a tilton work with the vacuum booster but never did figure out a way to do it easily and effectively, remember the farther away you attach the M/C from the pivot point of the clutch pedal the stiffer the pedal is, to get the M/C below the booster it would require you to angle it up like the f-body M/C or have a hugemongous leg...

plus the hydroboost is the absolute best thing I've done to the car as far as brakes go...I've got the 12" upgrade in the front and LS1 F-Body 12" discs in the back, the old setup with a electric vacuum pump, a vacuum reservoir, trying to work the dual diaphram booster doesn't even come close to the amazing brakes I have now

and as far as the hydroboost robbing power.....it doesn't take any more away than the normal power steering pump does....I'm using the exact same pump as before I just changed the housing so it has two return lines....

ask more questions and I'll try to answer, Craig picked my brain long ago lol

oh, headers are Hooker 2455's that I modified the pass side to make fit better and then had coated

 

[Meat Drapes]

Everything is ready to be installed, Its just been too cold to crawl under the car. So it sits.... waiting.

 

[388bu]

:-({|=

Georgia!? How cold could it be? I was wrapping up the 6.0 swap in 40 degree weather, no heat in the garage either.

:lol: