Tremec TKO 600
- Thread starter Meat Drapes
- Start date
I refuse to quit!!
QuickTime has tried to do everything possible to help me. But I neglected one thing. I should have insisted that they take the clutch fork for alignment purposes. I asked, they said they dont need it. Now I am unsure as to how I am going to proceed.
Can I take the rod from the slave to the fork and put a bend in it to make the fit? WTF? How can I extend the clutch fork? Do I want too?
Should I just take the whole thing out to a welder and have the bracket removed and shortened and reattached at an angle?
Perhaps light the car on fire and roast marshmellows... with great satisfaction!!
QuickTime has tried to do everything possible to help me. But I neglected one thing. I should have insisted that they take the clutch fork for alignment purposes. I asked, they said they dont need it. Now I am unsure as to how I am going to proceed.
Can I take the rod from the slave to the fork and put a bend in it to make the fit? WTF? How can I extend the clutch fork? Do I want too?
Should I just take the whole thing out to a welder and have the bracket removed and shortened and reattached at an angle?
Perhaps light the car on fire and roast marshmellows... with great satisfaction!!
Wow, what a nightmare Jeff.
Definitely dont do the bent rod route! I am not sure how you could lengthen that fork in a reliable manner, especially with it not needing to be much longer. If you could figure out a way, I might say thats your best bet. I know I wouldnt mind my fork being longer as the pedal effort would be easier, but then again you will lose SOME T/O bearing travel if you lengthen the fork so keep that in mind. Wether or not its enough to cause issues is unlikely im guessing.
Maybe re-welding that plate so that the slave is at an angle would be best really. If you do that, I would make sure that whoever welds it, doesnt go to town with the welding all at once. I know its away from the edge of the bell quite a bit, but warpage would still be in the back of my mind!
If you do re-position the slave, get it tacked and double check the actuator rod and make sure its far enough away from the fork, etc.
Good luck man.
Definitely dont do the bent rod route! I am not sure how you could lengthen that fork in a reliable manner, especially with it not needing to be much longer. If you could figure out a way, I might say thats your best bet. I know I wouldnt mind my fork being longer as the pedal effort would be easier, but then again you will lose SOME T/O bearing travel if you lengthen the fork so keep that in mind. Wether or not its enough to cause issues is unlikely im guessing.
Maybe re-welding that plate so that the slave is at an angle would be best really. If you do that, I would make sure that whoever welds it, doesnt go to town with the welding all at once. I know its away from the edge of the bell quite a bit, but warpage would still be in the back of my mind!
If you do re-position the slave, get it tacked and double check the actuator rod and make sure its far enough away from the fork, etc.
Good luck man.
that would be my 'best ideal' plan.. is to move the slave...
the only thing that would worry me was if it was a stock set up... it would, or atleast try, to push the fork off the ball... but it looks like this set up is opposite....
other than that... all i can suggest is dumping the whole setup and running a hydro T/O bearing
the only thing that would worry me was if it was a stock set up... it would, or atleast try, to push the fork off the ball... but it looks like this set up is opposite....
other than that... all i can suggest is dumping the whole setup and running a hydro T/O bearing
I would've gone with a hydraulic T/O personally, then you could use whichever bellhousing you saw fit. I haven't followed this specific conversion too closely, so I don't know all the specifics (been just skimming the posts lately).
I sent the bell back.
The pic above is right after I bought the car. It had a 327 and the stock saginaw with a 7.5 posi rear. The first trip to the track on the first pass I blew the rear end into chunks in the burn out box. I ran a 15.2 and when I went to turn to get off the track and there were no spider gears left I knew I had my frist problem.
My drag days are numbered. I am going to fix the bell, get this pig back on the road and get ready for one last blast down the 1320'. I like the abuse so for the last pass I will be hooking up the 150 shot and lettin her rip off the line at no less then 3500 rpm. I am so distraught I cracked a cold one before noon today.
The pic above is right after I bought the car. It had a 327 and the stock saginaw with a 7.5 posi rear. The first trip to the track on the first pass I blew the rear end into chunks in the burn out box. I ran a 15.2 and when I went to turn to get off the track and there were no spider gears left I knew I had my frist problem.
My drag days are numbered. I am going to fix the bell, get this pig back on the road and get ready for one last blast down the 1320'. I like the abuse so for the last pass I will be hooking up the 150 shot and lettin her rip off the line at no less then 3500 rpm. I am so distraught I cracked a cold one before noon today.
Holy crap, Jeff. I feel your pain.
I am glad you did not decide to try and mount the slave at an angle because that would have also resulted in a reduced travel of the fork. You would not have been satisfied.
Are you going to try the hydraulic TO option? or go with the 1984-1992 F body Lakewood bellhousing? or weld the 606 bellhousing?
I am glad you did not decide to try and mount the slave at an angle because that would have also resulted in a reduced travel of the fork. You would not have been satisfied.
Are you going to try the hydraulic TO option? or go with the 1984-1992 F body Lakewood bellhousing? or weld the 606 bellhousing?
t5montecarlo said:
I am going to have them 'adjust' the bracket that holds the slave. There is room to work and I liked the fact that I had a bell that would accept a 168T flywheel if I needed it in the future. The 606 bell is no longer an option...ever. The F-Body bell severly limits my header options so no. And the HYD T/O option can be left on the table. For now I am going to make the slave work. If QuickTime cannot do it then I am full of ideas.
If the slave engages the fork at an angle the travel is not going to suffer. I only need a few degrees to make the geometry right. I am confident its going to work.
